aris glimmered in the sort of heat that brings everything down to a silence. Within the Place d’Iéna, Hermès provided a little mercy — cool flannels upon arrival (‘cool flannels at the door’ refers to the practice of offering damp, chilled cloths (flannels) to guests as a refreshing gesture, especially in hot weather — I could use one right about now) — before seating guests in a room that seemed tranquil and restrained.
This set the tone for Véronique Nichanian’s (the artistic director of Hermès’ menswear division) latest show, an exercise in relaxation, proportion, and texture.
Her solution to summer’s demands was to let the house’s leather breathe. The colour range remained traditional Hermès — deep, inky black, rich tobacco, soft neutrals — with muted coral, sage, and pale blue as quiet punctuation.
Tailoring and layering were, as always, strong and precise. The proportions just shifted a little here: shorter jackets, open-neck shirts worn under safari styles. Easy, relaxed slacks were the foundation paired with an effortless combination of bomber jackets, shirt-jackets and even weightless outerwear. Scarves, both silk and fringed leather, hung loose and low in a Parisian gesture of nonchalance.
“It’s the proportion I like — wider trousers, shorter jackets,” Nichanian declared.
Texture was the heart of it all: shirts in satin that skipped the collar entirely, polos where the seams deliberately didn’t quite line up, and V-necks punctured with tiny holes.
The bags were more than just accessories. Large H canvas totes, some plain, others decorated with a horse mid-leap, opened the lineup. Some bags showed off fun prints, while others played it simple and clean. They were all generously sized, obviously designed for everyday use and travel.
Shoulder totes and solid holdalls that you could just grab and go stole the limelight. The whole outing was fresh and just effortlessly easy. Nichanian called it “lightness,” but it came across as conviction — the quiet assurance of a man who knows what belongs in his world and wears it without fuss — brought to life by the collection.
– Images by Giovanni Giannoni/WWD