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Thanks to costume designer, Alex Bovaird, each season of The White Lotus’s wardrobe has been as buzzy as the show’s storylines. So, it comes with little surprise that she was nominated at last weekend’s Creative Arts Emmy Awards.
“It’s a nice icing on the cake to be nominated by your peers,” says the four-time Emmy-nominated costume designer whose credits include Nope from Jordan Peele, Steve McQueen’s Shame and True Detective: Night Country with Jodie Foster.
In addition to outfitting a large ensemble cast and sourcing pieces from labels like Johnny Was, Luna Flo, Tara Matthews and Ciao Lucia, Bovaird collaborated with French fashion label Jacquemus on a handful of custom designs for the series.
When it comes to the show’s sartorial aesthetic, Bovaird says she and The White Lotus’s creator, Mike White, have a shorthand after knowing one another for a decade. “We barely talk these days,” she says. “I just know what he wants. Obviously, we have meetings where I show him some visuals and mood boards, and we go through each character and what he expects and needs. But he is so focused on directing the show when it happens that he appreciates pushing some of the decisions to me. Every day, I show him what’s coming up just so there’s no surprises. He loves to underscore his characters with strong accents in the costume. He’s not afraid to make bold choices, but he’s also not afraid to tell me when he thinks something’s too much. It’s a good balance.”
Bovaird also co-designed a self-described “D.I.Y. punk” t-shirt with her longtime friend, East Village-based artist Scooter LaForge, for the third season. Worn by Aimee Lou Wood’s character, the design was inspired by Bovaird’s memory of attending a “Full Moon” all-night beach party in Thailand years ago.
“When I went to Thailand in the 90s, I went to a Full Moon party,” Bovaird recalls. “It was cool — not commercial at all. It was beautiful and life-changing, and then when we went back to do the show, I was disheartened to see that everything’s gotten huge and commercialized. … [Nowadays], they have these luminous big neon t-shirts that say ‘Full Moon Party,’ and they’re sold everywhere all over the island. I thought, ‘Well, if [The White Lotus characters] go to the Full Moon party, they would buy these t-shirts, but I’m going to make my own.’”
Bovaird and LaForge made five different potential designs, but ultimately the character wore one that read: “bombed out me box.” Of its meaning, Bovaird explains, “When I was there in the 90s, I met somebody, and they were reading Trainspotting, and they kept saying, ‘I’m bombed out me box’ in a Scottish accent. It’s a funny little phrase that doesn’t mean anything to anyone except me, and funnily enough, this person that I met in the 90s saw The White Lotus. He jumped up and down when he saw that t-shirt and was like, ‘It’s got to be the same Alex,’ because we’d traveled for a little bit together. So, that was cute. [I like adding] little personal touches, and I related to Aimee’s character — traveling around and being an expat. It’s a nice synergy.”
The outpouring of support for the design inspired the launch of her and LaForge’s clothing line, Full Moon Time. “I’m in love with the old club days of the 90s and this idea of community without cell phones,” Bovaird says of her t-shirt collection, which retails for $70 and features original digitized artwork at fullmoontime.com. “I’m drawn to subcultures, like in American Honey, [director Andrea Arnold’s film I costume-designed in 2016]. The idea was to make t-shirts to celebrate gathering, communal dancing, certain clubs or party nights. [It’s] the idea of times gone by. We did one for the Glastonbury Festival, and we hope to do more.” She adds, “I just love a graphic t-shirt. You can wear it with a blazer or with a silk skirt. It’s expressive but also sophisticated.”
Earlier this year, Bovaird completed two films, Lance Oppenheim’s Primetime with Robert Pattinson and Savage House with Richard E. Grant and Claire Foy as well as the Matthew Rhys-fronted series Widow’s Bay for Apple TV+. But The White Lotus remains her most challenging project to date. “It looks like a lot of fun to work in another country, and it is, but it’s harder than it needs to be,” she says. “Each White Lotus has been incredibly challenging. I just finished a show for Apple TV+ in Massachusetts, and my crew were like, ‘That was the hardest TV show we’ve ever worked on, and I was like, ‘That’s one-tenth as exhausting as a White Lotus.’”
We asked Bovaird to share details on her favorite looks and brands featured on “The White Lotus” in addition to her personal wardrobe hacks and favorite items for fall.
JOHNNY WAS Katia Floral Print Silk Chiffon Blouse $298
“I love that brand,” Bovaird says of Johnny Was, which was worn by Natasha Rothwell and Jennifer Coolidge’s characters. “There’s certain brands that we have built on through each season. I feel like I keep going back to [that brand] because they seem very White Lotus. They’re joyful and colorful and some of their stuff is a little bit mad. It’s walking the line of eclectic, but well done. I found them [while I was] in Hawaii because they have a shop there. They’re a great go-to for putting in your suitcase for a tropical holiday. You can put something by them on for dinner with some jewelry or you could throw it on to go down to the pool — depending on what your vibe is.”
CLIO PEPPIATT Rio Mini Dress $3,025
“Clio Peppiatt used to work for Alexander McQueen,” Bovaird says. “Then she started her own line. She is brilliant at capturing the eccentricity and the adventure of The White Lotus. She makes these beautiful dresses encrusted in stones. We used one of the dresses on Lucia in season two. It’s Lucia’s dream dress that she sees in the window, and she ends up buying with Dominic’s money. Lucia and Mia both wear dresses by Clio Peppiatt. They’re these magical outfits, and they caused quite a stir at the time. Clio Peppiatt continues to make really cool party dresses. If you’re looking for something to give you extra confidence and sparkle and make a statement, [they’re great]. They feel comfy, too, because they’re made out of a stretch material.”
GUCCI Canvas Bucket Hat $700
“It’s the sort of thing that I feel a celebrity would wear,” Bovaird says. “Or someone that felt like a celebrity. It’s quite bold. Actually, we saw a picture of Madonna wearing it. It’s a ballsy hat. Even though you can hide under it, it’s very, ‘Look at me.’ We like a little flashy. It’s also such a great shape to stay out of the sun. I think logoed accessories are fun, personally. If you’re [in] head-to-toe logos, that’s a little much, but a little accent is playful. It’s a classic but also a little bit baller kind of accessory, and [it is] good for [Michelle Monaghan’s character] Jacqueline, who is a little bit full of herself at times.”
MY BEACHY SIDE Serene Crochet One-Shoulder Cover-Up $390
“There is this group of women artisans in Turkey who make everything by hand,” she says of My Beachy Side. “I like their legacy of sustainability and charity. A vast portion of the show takes place in and around a beach and on an island. I’m always looking for that kind of vibe, and they always deliver. They have these meshy pieces that are a cute way to cover up but still be not covered up. They look like fishing nets. I was drawn to that. Chloe [who is played by Charlotte Le Bon] wears a fishing net [look by the brand], and she’s ‘caught a big fish.’ We like our poetic nods [on the show].”
FULL MOON TIME “Sawadee Kaaaaaa” Shirt $70
“This Full Moon shirt is my favorite,” she says. “Whenever I wear it people stop me on the street and ask me where I got it from. They love it. It’s nice to bring some joy into your morning coffee [run] or wherever you feel like wearing this. I wear mine super oversized. I get an extra large and then put it with a skirt and boots. I’m championing the 90s as usual. It’s Thai for hello but it also means, ‘I recognize the spirit in you,’ and so it’s more of a spiritual greeting. But it’s used every day as a hello. It’s sort of their equivalent of namaste.”
CIAO LUCIA Neroni Dress $395
“This particular collection was tailor made for Sarah Catherine [Hook],” she says. “She has a doll-like quality as Piper, and they were a little bit prissy and have a vintage quality. They look like they’re inspired by Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. They’re demure but not too covered up – like pretty little tennis dresses or a two-piece that has a vintage pattern. They were all over my mood board for Piper. And then when Sarah Catherine was cast — she is such an embodiment of their aesthetic.”
LUNA FLO Necklace
“She crafts these beautiful pieces,” Bovaird says of Luna Flo. “A lot of them are gold, and gold has become expensive. So, this one is silver with a little bit of gold and some turquoise. She always does symbols. We like symbols and signifiers and clues in The White Lotus. Particularly with season three, we were doing [a lot] about spirituality and religion. She does a lot of icons, and I’m into the idea of jewelry being a reminder because it’s always on you. This one’s great, and [I love] the idea that we need to soar like birds. This one’s not actually on the show, but I use a lot of Luna Flow on the show. This was my first piece I ever got.”
OAS Elowen Swim Shorts $110 and Catina Swim Shorts $110
“They are a resortwear company based in Sweden,” Bovaird says. “I love the owner, [Oliver Lundgren]. He’s super nice. It’s one of my favorite White Lotus brands. We used them on season one. They had these terry cloth shirts. Resort wear has taken the world by storm and now terry cloth shirts are everywhere, but it was one of the first times [I’d seen them]. I found them out in Hawaii. Anything with texture is nice on camera, and I’ve used them ever since. I love their shorts. Short shorts for men are in style now. Everyone’s daring to go a little 80s with their short shorts — especially in Palm Springs or L.A. More people need to know about this brand.”
TARA MATTHEWS Swimsuit
“Tara Matthews reached out to me,” Bovaird explains. “She does bespoke bathing suits. We wanted to create something special for all the different women on The White Lotus — the idea being I’d have enough time to do that and get all the measurements and make these perfect bikinis and swimsuits. Tara can give you a virtual fitting and make a bikini or a swimsuit perfect for you and your body type. We never got enough time to do it, so she ended up sending me some samples, and they are the best thing ever. You feel very sexy wearing them.”
H&M Boots $169
“I love a knee boot,” says Bovaird, who collaborated earlier this year with H&M on a limited-edition resort collection inspired by the show. “I work a lot on my feet, so I either wear sneakers or sometimes I’ll wear boots. I used to live in New York, and I’d wear a boots so often that, on my projects, they used to call me ‘Boots’ because they could hear me coming. When you fit an actor, sometimes they’ll say the key to the character is in the shoes. For me, wearing a good pair of boots makes me feel strong and powerful. You can throw them on with anything, and it gives a twist to your outfit. H&M are turning a corner at the moment. Their design is off the chain. Sometimes I’ll buy myself an expensive pair of boots and they don’t [hold up], and I regret it. It’s nice to have an affordable pair that you can try.”
SWATCH Teal Watch $120
“In an attempt to leave my phone at home, I’ve become addicted to wearing this Swatch Watch,” she says. “It’s not too fancy. Sometimes I wear nice jewelry, and I don’t want to wear a fancy watch and nice jewelry. I like to mix it up. I’ve got bunch of Swatch watches, and they’re comfy and utilitarian in all these different colors. It just reminds me of before we had phones, and it gives me an opportunity to not look at my phone for the time.”
BROOKS BROTHERS Blazer $598
“I love men’s tailoring, and I find men’s price points sometimes more affordable,” Bovaird says. “You can get a nice blazer that’s a little more affordable than one for cut for a woman. Brooks Brothers is timeless. I love mixing Brooks Brothers with something more punkie, girly or indie. And men’s tailoring is a little boxier on me, and I like that powerful silhouette. You can throw the blazer on a dress or something streamlined with boots. Sometimes I don’t feel like I’ve grown into my uniform, and I still look like an eclectic college girl. So if I’m feeling like I need to look more professional because I’m having a meeting or something, I’ll put a blazer on. Or if I’ve got a fitting and I’ve never met [them], I’ll put a blazer on, and that seems to make people think I’m professional.”
EMINENCE Hydrating Mist $39
“I love this product,” she says. “Skincare is the new makeup. I’m fortunate enough to work with great makeup artists and on The White Lotus her name is Bex [Hickey]. Her thing is all about glowing skin and skin prep. I don’t do the ten different products to get perfect skin. But this one feels good. You put it on before you apply other products. It’s part of my routine that I love.”
CARTIER Tote $2900
“I know it’s a big thing for a lot of people to carry one of these shopper bags,” she says. “I never really got into it because it’s not really me. But I got a Cartier bag, and I highly recommend it for if people are thinking of investing in a tote bag but maybe didn’t want [for it to be covered] in logos. I never would have thought one of these shopper bags was vital to my existence, but I can’t live without it now. It’s got this Mary Poppins quality, where it seems endless. Everything goes in there – my computer, a scarf, pens, my iPad and notebook. It’s good for a costume designer or anyone that’s in and out of an office with a laptop. My sister-in-law always carries Goyard bags. Actually, I borrowed her Goyard bag for season one and gave it to one of the characters.”
THE GREAT Vintage Army Jacket $425
According to social media, says Bovaird, “it’s like, ‘Oh, this summer’s all about the flip-flop.’ I’m like, ‘Isn’t every summer all about the flip-flop?’ But I did see that the army jacket is making a comeback. I wasn’t sure that it had ever gone away, but I do have several [of them]. It’s one of those pieces that is transitional. When you’re a costume designer working in hot and cold [locations], and you’re on the truck, you’re on the set, shopping, in London, on the plane — an army jacket is a good piece to blend in to other things. It’s cool, but it’s versatile and practical.”
BANANA REPUBLIC Embossed Leather Skinny Belt $80
Bovaird’s top wardrobe hack that saves the day in a pinch? A great belt. “I’m a big believer in borrowing from the opposite gender’s prescribed clothing, especially when you’re thrifting,” she says. “A belt comes in handy [to fine tune looks]. It’s another piece to invest in. If you want to splurge — a nice leather Hermes belt. Or Banana Republic.”