Founder and designer Zane Li made noise with his runway show debut in New York — the figurative and literal kind. The Chinese-born designer — still early in his career with only three womenswear collections under his belt — kept up the momentum through inventive but impeccably functional designs for this season.
Referencing sound as what set the collection into motion, as Li explored the effects of hearing familiar sounds, like the rustle of a fabric or the swish of a skirt in motion, that elicit a memory, a certain emotion or remembrance of a garment — what Li refers to as archetypes. These archetypes, such as a rain coat, can be worn together and layered, creating a complex composition of more than just clothes but a narrative of one’s story.
“By one motion, one movement, you can change the way or the impression of that simple garment. That archetype is what we’re trying to achieve, that’s not too pretentious, not too decorative,” said the designer.
With Li’s designs, what appears in photographs is more than what it seems — or its seams. What looks like a cropped zip-up vest on the model is actually a longer jacket, worn midway, with the original crown in the back. And there’s the miniskirt with an exaggerated origami fold that undulates with each stride. It’s hard to tell by just looking at a picture, but in real life the dimensions and design of each garment are revealed, the front and back of each piece telling a different story.
In theory, this may sound too complicated or conceptual for someone to wear, even perhaps setting oneself up for an outfit mishap. But up close you see all things were considered with precise execution. From the fabrics selected to create tension and shape, the skillful construction of a flat square panel turned into a structured shrug to the pragmatism of providing multiple options to wear one garment. Li built on his codes of tailoring, function and playfulness that delivered yet another distinct collection of standout pieces.