This hunt for independents is about looking for something not just different, but seeking out the truly exceptional master craftspeople. “The individual watch brands are started and usually maintained by individual watchmakers and their small teams, and we see these come to the table with unique designs that are innovative and well-crafted with finished movements,” says Borgelt. “Many of the brands in question are producing watches to a standard and quality that is hard to replicate via mass-production methods.” Some of the standouts include Kari Voutilainen, Rexhep Rexhepi and his brand Akrivia, Speake-Marin, Vianney Halter, and Naoya Hida & Co. “These aren’t household names but they’ve built reputations founded on quality of craftsmanship rather than brand marketing,” Borgelt says.
Is independent watchmaking here to stay?
As long as there are avid watch collectors, there will always be a market for quality independent makers. “There is a growing affinity for independent watches that are pushing watchmaking into new directions, and this trend will continue as seasoned collectors look for something different than the brands that dominate the market,” Borgelt says. “The interest seems to be at a new fervor and will translate into more independent watch brands getting the attention they deserve beyond inner watch circles and aficionados.”
Strap Hacking
While one of the members of the Illumanti didn’t speak to this trend directly, we’d be remiss to leave it off. If you ever find yourself getting bored of a watch, try switching out the strap. A new color or material can completely change the look. This little hack has been growing in popularity and Kevin O’Leary, a.k.a, Mr. Wonderful, with his infamous red strap, has been giving it plenty of airtime. Now sophisticated strap makers have become experts at creating straps designed for specific watches. Brands like Delugs make a variety of options just so you can customize your MoonSwatch. Or if you’ve ever wondered what a Rolex Submariner would look like on a rubber or nylon strap, there are options for that as well.
Rather than fight the rising tide, brands are embracing this push toward customization with the development of their own quick-release strap systems. Each brand tends to have its own way of switching out the strap, and anything that removes the need for a spring bar tool is a big win in my book. Vacheron Constantin now provides several of its popular Overseas models with multiple straps as standard. The interchangeable bracelet and rubber strap can be switched with the push of a button.
Is strap hacking here to stay?
In one word, yes. If anything, the number of strap options available is only going to grow with new designs and new materials. Many collectors will now look favorably on a watch that allows for strap hacking over one that doesn’t. What will be interesting to see is how many additional variants of their own straps the brands produce, like Vacheron, or if they’ll leave that to the third-party strap producers.