At Tod’s, creative director Matteo Tamburini was thinking of those “bittersweet end-of-summer moments,” even more appropriate on Friday afternoon given the gloomy rainy day in Milan.
The designer was inspired by the book “An Italian Summer” by Claude Nori and on his mood board were photos of Felice Casorati works — a delicate fruit still life, for example — and of Kate Moss and Emma Balfour, seen as “representing the new ideal of beauty in the ‘80s.” This contributed to Tamburini’s idea of natural ease and “clothes that take shape around the body, in an essential lightness.”
Entering Milan’s PAC, the museum of contemporary art where Tod’s has regularly held its shows, the brand’s white lab-coat-wearing artisans were seen at work with their tools. The punctures that become Tod’s signature gommino, or pebble sole detail, were revisited as a large background installation and set for the show.
These decorative perforations also became details on garments and accessories, as in the open-toe gommino pump. Leather — where Tod’s expertise lies — was seen on flip-flops and new loafers were presented with rich and thick multicolored leather threading done by hand.
This motif was also seen on some standout boxy and oversize leather jackets. Also attractive were the cotton trenches that showed inside details with sartorial leather inserts. Stripes have been a recurring theme in some Milan collections and Tamburini’s take on the motif was eye-catching and fun. Regimental stripes made with thin leather strips in different colors were sewn onto light poplin in men’s shirts that morphed into minidresses. Inspired by artist Frank Stella’s abstract and graphic works, printed silk and inlaid napa became geometric patterns on foulard skirts and tops.
Eyeing a younger clientele, the designer offered all-leather, sleeveless minidresses worn with men’s flat loafers with gold details on the back.
The color palette was mainly of warm and natural tones with burnt hues and saffron yellow accents on the soft Pashmy caban and the perforated napa jacket, for example. Tod’s Wave bag was reinterpreted with contrasting stitching.
Tamburini again proved he has a strong point of view, one aligned with Tod’s codes, contributing to the ongoing evolution of the brand’s fashion collections and narrative.