Just before the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria fashion show began last Wednesday, the guests mingled in front of the imposing Castel Sant’Angelo, which dates from AD123 — part papal residence, part mausoleum for emperors and part, as the name suggests, fortress. Among them, towering above those around him, was Manchester City’s statuesque Erling Haaland, wearing an elegant pale grey combo of polo neck and relaxed, full trousers. Only a silver necklace over the knit sparkled as a decorative hint. But boy was he about to be eclipsed in the wardrobe department.
The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria collection is unusual in the extreme. It is essentially couture for men and is presented each year in a different Italian location that the designer duo of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana select with a view of engaging in a dialogue with its history and tradition. This year they went for the big one: Rome. As Dolce says: “Rome is an extraordinary city, an endless source of inspiration. It embodies our love for Italy and its roots, for the artists and creatives that in time have celebrated it.” Before the show as the invitees enjoyed an aperitivo, he confided to me that “Rome is intense culturally — it is so different to Milan. You feel the presence and influence of the Vatican. It is a heavy city — not in a bad way, just intense.”
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The decorative opulence of the collection pays homage to the history and tradition of Rome
So when places were taken and the classical music soundtrack started, it perhaps shouldn’t have come as such a surprise that the fashion show — the first permitted to be staged here — kicked off with a procession of “cardinals” in their red vestments, like a scene from Edward Berger’s movie Conclave. These took their place on the bridge that connects the castle to the city, the Ponte Sant’Angelo, which is lined with marble angels designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Bodices constructed from white fabric looks like marble
The models then began their own stately procession. We were treated to a visual symphony of luxurious hand-made decorative opulence, inspired, sometimes very literally, by ecclesiastical tailoring. Here, among the pink and black suits were tunic-style pieces that borrowed from the wardrobe of the Catholic Church: copes, chasubles and dalmatics. The embroidery and crystal decoration, the filigree made from gold bullion thread, the use of the cross as a recurring emblem in both clothing and jewellery — all this left us in no doubt that we were witnessing clothing possessed of grandeur.
Copes, chasubles and dalmatics borrow from the wardrobe of the Catholic church
ISIDORE MONTAG / GORUNWAY.COM
One golden brass filigree bodice displayed gemstones and crystals like a piece of body armour. Another bodice, constructed from a white fabric that looks like marble, featured a three-dimensional head of Saint Peter with the keys to the kingdom of heaven. And though some of the more extreme expressions would undoubtedly require quite the occasion to get a wearing, there were plenty of embroidered and embellished jackets and trousers that would do service at any dressy event — though admittedly ear-marking the wearer as someone who enjoys spectacle and theatre.
The cross is a recurring emblem in both clothing and jewellery
But then the brand’s Alta Sartoria is spectacular and theatrical. Those invited to attend are the label’s top customers and this cohort decamp annually to whichever Italian city or venue the designers have designated. Last year it was Sardinia, previously it has been Venice and Florence. Alta Sartoria, launched in 2015, meaning literally “high tailoring”, is the male equivalent of what Dolce & Gabbana does for women: Alta Moda (“high fashion”). And like the women who attend those shows (and this week there was one the night before the men’s event at Rome’s historic Forum), the men at this couture bash place orders for what’s on display. Often while the models are actually walking the catwalk. Prices start at about €50,000 and each piece is unique. If you buy one of these outfits you won’t ever bump into anyone dressed the same. Not even Erling Haaland.
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