Have night-time beauty routines become too extreme?

The uglier you look going to sleep, the more beautiful you will look in the morning – that’s the mantra of people on TikTok who are taking part in “morning shed” videos.

The trend consists of people swaddled in silicone masks and mouth tape, filming themselves removing the skin care products they slept in the night before.

Now US celebrity and influencer Kim Kardashian is attempting to profit from the extreme bedtime rituals trend – by launching shapewear for your face from her brand Skims.

As of July 2023, the company, which specialises in figure-hugging lingerie, was estimated to be worth $4bn, according to Forbes.

Retailing at £52, the new mask sold out in under 24 hours, to people hoping it will provide them with a “sculpted” jaw-line, as the product is marketed.

But face shapewear has split the internet. Some hail it as the future of non-invasive contouring, but others condemn it as dystopian, and say the company is making women feel more insecure.

Face wraps are not new, and similar designs have existed for years, typically used post-surgery. But Skims has rebranded the concept saying the “must-have” wrap can be used “everyday” and that it’s intended to “shape and sculpt”.

On TikTok, beauty influencers are pairing face wraps with other viral skincare trends like gua sha – scraping a tool across the face – and mouth taping, which involves sticking tape over your lips at night. It’s all in an attempt to wake up in the morning with the best skin possible.

Skincare expert Laura Porter tells the BBC the face wrap is being marketed to Gen Z and younger millennials. Skims’ marketing campaigns typically feature models in their 20s, and are often are endorsed by celebrities like Kylie Jenner, who has a young fan base and leverages social media trends.

“The branding and tone of messaging signal it is directed toward women who follow beauty trends and influencer culture,” Porter explains.

The brand works with beauty influencers to promote its products, and on TikTok some influencers are claiming the new face wrap gives them instant results.

“The way this face wrap has elevated my morning shed is crazy, my jawline has never been this snatched,” one young beauty influencer said in a video.

But medical professionals say there is no science behind the snug-fitting wrap.

Dr Anna Andrienko, an aesthetic doctor specialising in cosmetic procedures, tells the BBC that while these garments “may offer some temporary sculpting or de-puffing effects due to pressure and heat retention,” the results are far from permanent.

“These face wraps do not deliver lasting contouring or skin-tightening results,” she explains. “At best, they can reduce fluid retention short term. At worst, overuse may lead to skin irritation, breakouts, or circulation issues if worn too tightly or for prolonged periods.”

Dr Andrienko also dismisses the product’s reference to “being infused with collagen yarns”.

Collagen is a protein vital to skin elasticity and firmness, but there’s little evidence that fabric containing collagen can deliver measurable benefits.

But it’s not just the medical efficacy that’s raising questions. Critics argue products like these are fuelling harmful beauty ideals, reinforcing insecurities and sending the message that even your sleep needs to be optimised for aesthetic gain.

Porter says products like these can impact body image, particularly among younger consumers.

“When we start targeting areas like the chin or jawline with compression wraps, it sends a message that even natural, structurally normal features need fixing,” she says. “Over time, this can chip away at self-esteem, making people feel inadequate unless they’re constantly tweaking or reshaping themselves.”

Former model Chloe Thomas agrees, saying products promising to slim and sculpt the face “turn the clock back on any progress we might have been making with body image acceptance”.

Body positive activist Michelle Elman likens the wrap to something you would see in the dystopian world of The Handmaid’s Tale.

She is concerned consumers buying the product believe they will have the same face as Kim Kardashian if they wear the wrap.

“That’s not true because she went to expensive facialists and beauty technicians to get her face and jawline, not because of a piece of material,” she says.

The product’s launch this week has caused a stir – on Skims’ Instagram post for the face wrap, one person asked if it was an April Fools’ joke, while another said they couldn’t tell if the brand was trolling customers.

Several people said the product is contributing to “bad self-esteem among young people”.

The BBC has contacted Skims for comment.

Some people also jokingly compared it to Silence of the Lambs’ villain Hannibal Lecter’s restraint mask.

Anthony Hopkins, who played Lecter in the 1991 film, resurrected his character, and posted a video mocking the headwrap.

“Hello Kim, I’m already feeling 10 years younger,” he said in the clip.

Porter says many “morning shedding” rituals online have “tipped into the realm of performative beauty”.

While it may have started as genuine self-care, it’s not become about “aesthetic perfection, rather than realistic or sustainable skincare”.

“Many trends may look impressive online, but they often prioritise visual trends over evidence-based practices.”

Mouth taping, another trend that’s part of the “morning shed” routine, claims to improve sleep quality, facial symmetry and even jaw definition.

But while it’s framed as a wellness hack, medical professionals have raised concerns as restricting mouth breathing can be dangerous for people with sleep apnoea or undiagnosed respiratory issues.

Unlike pharmaceuticals, most cosmetic products, including those with sculpting claims can fall into a regulatory grey zone.

This gives brands leeway to imply benefits through marketing language, user testimonials, and influencer content, rather than make direct claims that would require scientific backing.

Porter recommends that people “look beyond buzzwords” and seek out objective perspectives, rather than influencer promotions.

“Be wary of exaggerated promises such as “instant lift,” “snatched,” or “face sculpted overnight,” which often prioritise marketing over science, she adds.