When “Emily in Paris” costume designer Marylin Fitoussi learned that Season 4 of the Netflix series would take its titular character to Italy, she saw it as a perfect opportunity to pay homage to her love for black-and-white films of the 1940s and 1950s — and pay tribute to such cinema Italiano stars as Sophia Loren and Claudia Cardinale.
At the end of Season 4, Emily (Lily Collins) heads to Rome and finds herself enamored with the city and with Marcello (Eugenio Franceschini). To reflect that, Fitoussi took a more romantic approach to Emily’s outfits so that she’s “more relaxed and forgets about her Instagram for a bit.”
Emily in Rome, in love. Her costumes reflected this enamored side.
GIULIA PARMIGIANI/NETFLIX
“In many Italian movies, you’ll see polka-dot prints,” Fitoussi adds. “Sophia Loren wore several dresses with black-and-white polka dots, or the reverse. So I said, maybe we can play with polka dots.”
Emily dons a blue top with white polka dots, shorts and flats while carrying a butterfly Peter Nitz backpack — a look that was Collins’ idea.
“Lily said, ‘I have a friend of a friend who designed this backpack, and it’s really interesting. Let me show it to you. Let’s see if we can use it,’” Fitoussi recalls. She agreed it was perfect and symbolic of Emily’s feelings. “She felt free, and when you’re in love, you have butterflies in your stomach, so I said, ‘Let’s use it.’”
The polka-dot corset top was by Vivienne Westwood. Notably, Fitoussi put Emily in Christian Louboutin flats. “It’s important because it’s Rome, she’s walking and she’s on a scooter, so it felt more relaxed and very feminine,” says the costume designer behind the decision.
Lily Collins was the perfect collaborator who picked out the backpack.
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While Emily wears numerous brands and designers, the key to dressing the character doesn’t lie in labels. “The pieces help tell a story,” Fitoussi says. “I pick pieces because they sing to me. I wanted this strong contrast and to focus on the butterfly because it reflects freedom for her. She’s smiling and she’s so happy.”
The red, white and blue palette was not deliberate, and a happy accident. “It’s a tribute to the French flag and the American flag,” Fitoussi laughs.
She describes Collins as the perfect collaborator, also calling her a chameleon because of how perfectly she wears bold designs and colors. The actor is also willing to take risks in the same way Emily does. “I put her in a black dress with pink polka dots when she’s at a party with Marcello,” Fitoussi
says. “This look is risky and unexpected for the Emily we know and cherish. But we wanted to be playful to express this joie de vivre that she is feeling while she’s in love.”
Marilyn Fitoussi was inspired by “Clueless,” but had found some pieces back in season 1.
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Aside from the influence of vintage Italian cinema, Fitoussi nods to “Clueless” in episode 4 by putting Emily in a yellow-and-black houndstooth dress over a ruffled blouse and bow tie secured with a belt buckle. The blouse was an item Fitoussi had been holding onto since Season 1 but couldn’t find the right moment until now.
“It’s very Victorian and French, with a bit of Marie Antoinette,” she says. Fitoussi loves the idea of blending contemporary with period and felt the bow tie was the perfect touch. “I found that on Instagram, and I found Catherine Osti, who designed that,” she says, noting she excited to add a feminine touch on a masculine design. “It was very chic on Emily, and Lily wore it so perfectly.”