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When Miuccia Prada sent boat shoes down the runway at her SS24 Miu Miu show, the fashion world sat up. Also known as top-siders or deck shoes, the moccasin-like style with 360-degree lacing and a rubber sole has nautical origins thanks to Paul Sperry, who is credited with inventing the non-slip shoe after he fell overboard on his boat in 1935. He patented the sole in 1939, and it became standard-issue for the US Navy’s casual uniform a year later – before eventually making its way onto civilian feet around the world.
Today the shoe has become a smart-casual standard combining the comfort of a sneaker with the polish of a loafer. According to online retailer Mr Porter, searches for boat shoes have increased by 120 per cent in the past six months with Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana and Zegna among the most in-demand labels, according to buying director Daniel Todd.
GH Bass oiled suede Mini Lug Hampton
Price: £210
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Scarosso leather Ginevra loafers
Price: £295
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Options range from neutral, Ivy League-style classics at Sebago and GH Bass (try the Mini Lug Hampton, £210) to Italian-inspired elegance at Pasadena-based brand Ghiaia, whose Marina dock shoe is hand-sewn from structured martellata leather (£731). For minimalists – and special occasions – defer to the Milanese brand Scarosso or the Stockholm-based tailoring house Saman Amel, which crafts its bestselling City Moc (boat shoe-adjacent, as it only features lacing on the upper) from premium Italian suede (£545).
For a classic finish, look to John Lobb’s offering (£890). The brand’s Foil shoe, designed as a “contemporary twist” on the trend, according to CEO Philippe Gonzalez, features glove stitching on the apron and a padded insole reminiscent of Riva boat interiors. His advice is to wear a pair with “linen trousers and an oversized shirt for a more casual day at the office, or with swim shorts and a linen shirt by the pool.”
Bottega Veneta leather Haddock boat shoes
Price: £990
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Loewe metallic calfskin Campo boat shoes
Price: £1,100
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Grenson leather Dunstan shoes
Price: £350
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Studio Nicholson leather Guston shoes
Price: £495
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Want to make a statement? Celine Homme’s Bateau model is embellished with gold Triomphe charms (£790) while Loewe’s Campo shoe, available in a soft suede and striking metallic calfskin, showcases Flamenco-style knots and an exaggerated round toe (from £825). Those hankering after some height might prefer Grenson’s Dunstan, which pairs a boat-shoe upper with a hefty Vibram rubber commando sole (£350). Alternatively, try the Haddock by Bottega Veneta (£990) or Studio Nicholson’s Guston boat shoe with raw-cut laces and topstitching at the welt (£495).
And if you have an old pair at the back of the cupboard, ready for a refresh? Just take inspiration from the Miu Miu catwalk: embrace the scuffing and add colourful laces.