Gel manicures have turned into a tiny luxury that fits between lunch breaks and school runs. The ultraviolet or near‑ultraviolet lamps that harden glossy manicure coatings do the job in about four minutes, so the routine feels harmless.
The dryers bathe fingertips in swift pulses of light, but until recently few people asked what those pulses do to the skin that holds the nails. A new laboratory study brings unsettling answers.
The new work was led by photochemist Dr. María Laura Dántola at the Institute of Theoretical and Applied Physical‑Chemical Research (INIFTA), part of Argentina’s National Scientific and Technical Research Council (CONICET).
Studying manicure lamps
Serrano’s team placed common skin molecules, including tyrosinase, inside a chamber that mimicked a salon lamp and zapped them for the same four‑minute cycle used in most gel services.
All targets, from amino acids to lipids, emerged chemically altered and less able to perform their jobs.
“These devices are used without any controls or regulations requiring manufacturers to report on the potential risks of frequent exposure,” cautioned Dántola and colleagues.
One of the starkest changes hit tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives production of melanin, a pigment that shields DNA from solar radiation.
The researchers also measured how fast the altered molecules sparked oxidative stress reactions that can shred cell membranes. Reaction rates jumped within seconds, confirming that harm starts long before a hand is removed from the booth.
Why photosensitization matters
Photosensitization happens when a molecule absorbs light then transfers that energy to oxygen, creating reactive species. Those species slice through DNA, proteins, and lipids with no regard for cell repair cycles.
Because tyrosinase sits at the start of melanin synthesis, even small interruptions amplify downstream damage. Losing melanin’s natural sunscreen effect makes every future dose of sunlight or lamp light more hazardous.
Many over‑the‑counter skincare ingredients, including retinoids and some antibiotics, can enhance photosensitization.
People who use them may face higher risks because their skin already carries extra light‑reactive compounds.
Tyrosinase, melanin and lost defense
Tyrosinase flips the chemical switches that turn the amino acid tyrosine into melanin granules. When the lamp’s photons broke those switches, the team saw melanin output stall.
Without melanin the skin compensates poorly for incoming ultraviolet, so photo‑aging and cancer risk rise. The altered enzyme also disrupts color balance, explaining reports of blotchy pigmentation after frequent gel sessions.
Manicure lamps are very bright
Bench measurements showed the lamp delivered a dose of UVA radiation around 368–400 nanometers, the same band blamed for tanning and wrinkles.
A separate American study in 2023 reported that a 20‑minute session killed up to 70 percent of cultured human skin cells and stamped permanent mutations on the survivors.
Sensor data from the Argentine team indicate the lamp’s irradiance peaks at 7 milliwatts per square centimeter, nearly matching the noon sun in Buenos Aires during spring.
Weekly visits translate into roughly three and a half hours under that intensity each year, more than many people spend sunbathing.
A systematic review in 2024 concluded that while the absolute cancer risk appears low, the evidence remains weak and long‑term users should be told the data gaps.
Short bursts, long shadows
Gel clients often repeat the service every two to three weeks, layering dose upon dose across years. Cumulative exposure matters because photochemical injuries add rather than heal, especially when they trigger oxidative stress and DNA breaks.
A 2023 test on human keratinocytes showed sunscreen with SPF 50 cut cell death by more than one‑third during the same four‑minute irradiation used in salons.
Protective gloves that leave only the nail plate visible can block over 90 percent of the rays, yet they remain optional accessories.
“These are processes that, in one way or another, result in cell death,” added Dántola and colleagues after monitoring the altered enzyme profiles.
The comment echoes warnings from dermatology societies that link chronic UVA to premature aging and certain skin cancers.
Keeping nails and skin safe
Dermatologists at the American Academy of Dermatology urge customers to apply a broad‑spectrum SPF 30 or higher on their hands before every gel manicure and to choose LED lamps that cure polish faster and with lower UV output.
Salons can switch to newer hybrid lacquers that air‑dry or set under visible blue light, trimming exposure further. At home, limiting sessions and spacing them at least a month apart reduces cumulative dose.
For clients unwilling to give up the chip‑free finish, simple habits help: wear fingertip‑less UPF gloves, time the lamp cycles carefully, and keep moisturizer handy because dry skin amplifies light penetration.
Regulators have yet to issue binding standards for consumer nail lamps, so the burden falls on users and technicians.
Serrano’s group believes clear warning labels and pre‑packed barrier gloves would let people enjoy the beauty trend while understanding the trade‑offs.
Manicure lamps: Speed vs. safety
The beauty business around gel nails is sizable. Analysts estimate the global UV gel polish segment alone was worth almost six billion dollars in 2024 and could double within a decade.
Social media trends and influencer tutorials push fans to redo manicures every week rather than once a month, increasing exposure well beyond the study’s four‑minute baseline. Convenience encourages at‑home kits, yet those kits often ship without detailed safety instructions.
Dántola stresses that the project sits in basic science, aimed at mapping chemical events rather than legislating behavior.
Still, sharing data allows dermatologists, engineers, and regulators to design larger trials that measure real skin after repeated consumer‑level doses.
Applied research may soon test glove fabrics, lamp filters, or polish formulas that polymerize under visible light. Until such options become standard, informed choice remains the safest tool on the manicure table.
The study is published in Chemical Research in Toxicology.
—–
Like what you read? Subscribe to our newsletter for engaging articles, exclusive content, and the latest updates.
Check us out on EarthSnap, a free app brought to you by Eric Ralls and Earth.com.
—–