The study, conducted by researchers Kunming Medical University, found that the experimental cream not only improved skin barrier function but also reduced nerve sensitivity and inflammation — two areas often overlooked in sensitive skin treatments.
While both creams were effective, the experimental formulation went a step further by addressing neurovascular hyper-reactivity, a critical factor in sensitive skin that has received little attention so far.
Addressing a widespread condition
Sensitive skin is defined by unpleasant sensations such as burning, itching, tingling, or stinging in response to everyday triggers. These may include cosmetics, heat, cold air, or even emotional stress.
According to international estimates, up to 71% of adults report some form of sensitive skin, with the face being the most affected area.
Traditionally, treatment has focused on repairing the skin’s protective barrier and improving hydration. However, emerging research points to the role of nerve and blood vessel over-reactivity (referred to as neurovascular hyper-reactivity) as a key driver of symptoms.
The pathogenesis of sensitive skin goes beyond barrier dysfunction, as neurogenic inflammation and vascular reactivity play equally important roles and result in chronic discomfort.
Study design and methodology
The trial involved 35 participants diagnosed with sensitive skin, of which 33 completed the study. Participants applied the experimental cream to one side of the face and a control cream to the other, twice daily over 28 days.
The control cream was Winona Sensitive Moisturising Special Care Cream (first generation), while the experimental cream was a second-generation version of the same product, but with four additional active ingredients: prinsepia utilis Royle polysaccharides, physalis alkekengi calyx extract, salvia miltiorrhiza root extract, and porphyridium cruentum extract.
Assessments were carried out at baseline, then at seven, 14 and 28 days. They included physician evaluations, self-reported symptom scores, imaging, hydration and water loss measurements, as well as nerve sensitivity testing. Safety monitoring continued for 28 days after the study.
Key findings
Both creams were found to be safe, well-tolerated, and effective in improving common symptoms of sensitive skin, such as dryness, roughness, and tightness. However, the experimental cream consistently outperformed the control in several areas, such as pruritus (itchiness), erythema (redness), skin barrier repair, and neurovascular hyper-reactivity.
The experimental cream achieved a greater reduction in itch scores compared to the control, and physician assessments and imaging confirmed that it reduced redness more effectively as well.
While both creams improved hydration and reduced trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), the experimental cream showed superior improvement in TEWL values.
Additionally, only the experimental cream reduced discomfort from capsaicin exposure (CAT scores) and significantly increased current perception threshold (CPT), an indicator of reduced nerve sensitivity.
These results suggested that the added ingredients not only strengthened the barrier, but also acted on nerve pathways and inflammatory responses.
Role of active ingredients
The enhanced effects of the experimental cream were attributed to its additional botanical and algal extracts, each contributing through different mechanisms.
Prinsepia utilis polysaccharides, for instance, strengthened tight junction proteins in the skin barrier and suppressed substance P, a neuropeptide linked to itching and inflammation.
Porphyridium cruentum extract improved vascular elasticity and displayed anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties, while physalis alkekengi calyx extract provided broad anti-inflammatory effects through flavonoids and other compounds.
Lastly, salvia miltiorrhiza root extract reduced expression of TRPV1 (a receptor involved in pain and heat sensation) and lowered inflammatory cytokines IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α.
Together, these actives complemented barrier-repairing ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate, β-glucan, and sea buckthorn oil.
Safety and user experience
No adverse reactions were recorded in either group during the trial or the safety follow-up, with mild temporary symptoms reported in fewer than 6% of cases and resolved without intervention.
Overall, user feedback was positive, with more than 86% of participants rating both creams as comfortable, fast-absorbing, and non-irritating.
Furthermore, the experimental cream received higher ratings in skin appearance improvement and itch relief.
Industry implications
The findings point to a shift in sensitive skin research, from a narrow focus on barrier repair to a more comprehensive approach that addresses nerve and vascular sensitivity.
This has implications for cosmetic and dermatological product development, particularly in Asia, where the prevalence of sensitive skin is high.
As such, developing multifunctional products that target both skin barrier and neurovascular pathways could open new opportunities in the sensitive skin care market.
Future product innovation may increasingly integrate anti-inflammatory botanicals and neuro-modulating actives, alongside traditional moisturisers, to deliver broader symptom relief.
Limitations and next steps
The researchers acknowledged that the study had limitations, including a small sample size and the potential for tolerance in repeated nerve sensitivity testing.
Based on this, they suggested that future trials could combine objective measurements with questionnaires tailored to neuro-sensitivity.
Despite these limitations, the results provided clinical evidence supporting the development of next-generation sensitive skin formulations.
The researchers stated: “After adding new active ingredients, the experimental product (based on the efficacy of the control product) not only suppresses inflammation from multiple dimensions and enhances barrier repair, but also reduces neurovascular hypersensitivity through different mechanisms, providing a new option for those troubled by sensitive skin.”
Source: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
“Clinical Observation of a Novel Moisturizing Cream for Reducing Neurovascular Hyper-Reactivity in Sensitive Skin”
https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.70287
Authors: Li Jiang, et al.