In a time when the whole world seems angry, Johnson Hartig took the opposite tack, aiming to offer a positive alternative to all the negativity.
Although his message was still about a revolt, the designer of Libertine presented it in such a way that it felt upbeat.
“This season is a love revolution,” he said backstage before his Wednesday night show. “We’re talking about peace and harmony and brotherhood and truth. Truth is beauty, and beauty is truth.”
He embroidered these positive affirmations in sequins on some of his coats and jackets to drive home the message.
“Beauty is more essential now than ever, and creating beauty is a quiet act of resistance. It is how we remind ourselves — and each other — of what is good, what is true, and what is worth preserving. This is a really peaceful way of protesting,” he said.
Although the show opened with Hartig’s take on American Revolution-era soldiers in tricorn hats playing a flute and drums, the mood was immediately lifted by his trademark colorful, elaborately designed women’s and menswear.
This season included a robust hollyhock print inspired by 15th and 16th-century botanical drawings, and a variety of garden-inspired patterns. One standout was a floral jacquard print Hartig created and complemented with an array of feathers that he used for dresses, pantsuits and other pieces. He also offered up an assortment of rainbow stripes, ribbon embellishments and other eye-popping art pieces that drew the admiration of guests including Cyndi Lauper, Martha Stewart, Christina Hendricks, Theodora Richards and Thom Browne.
For the second time, the show was held at the Elizabeth Street Garden, itself a place of protest as it was threatened with demolition by the city to create affordable housing. However, a compromise was reached and the garden was saved, bringing another positive element to the evening. “We did our little bit to help and it feels like a victory,” Hartig said.
Ditto for this collection.