While we have been enjoying New Zealand sauvignon blanc for many years, it is only recently that we have taken to their pinot noir. New Zealand has the perfect cool climate for growing this difficult grape and now produces some of the finest examples. Yields on pinot are low, so it is rarely cheap, but prices compare favourably with other regions such as Oregon, California and Burgundy.
The best-known regions are Marlborough, Martinborough (part of Wairarapa) and Central Otago, but pinot from Nelson and North Canterbury can be every bit as good. The excellent Pegasus Bay is available here but there are many more. In addition to the wines below, I am a huge fan of Pyramid Valley wines (curiouswines.ie) and Felton Road (jnwine.com).
Nelson is a small region two hours’ drive from Marlborough. The town is lively with a reputation for arts and crafts. The surrounding countryside, which includes a stunningly beautiful national park, produces timber, salads, apples, hops and grapes. There are some 25 wineries, mostly boutique, producing high-quality sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, chardonnay and pinot noir. Neudorf and Seifried are the leading producers in the region.
Central Otago is one of the most southerly vineyards in the world. It is in the far south of the South Island and is the only region in New Zealand to have a continental climate, with bitterly cold winters and long, hot sunny summers. The first modern vineyard was planted by Irish journalist Alan Brady, who released his first vintage in 1987. A sprightly 89-year-old, he produces The Wild Irishman in partnership with another much younger compatriot, Brian Shaw. The Two Paddocks is owned by the actor Sam Neill, who was born in Omagh, Co Tyrone. These days he is very committed to his vineyards and wine.
Tesco Finest Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023
13%, €15/€12 with Clubcard
Supple, smooth dark cherry and plum fruits with a rounded finish. Try it with salmon or tuna.
Tesco
Two Paddocks Picnic Pinot Noir 2023, Central Otago
12.5%, €30
A delicious light, fresh and juicy pinot with ripe red cherry fruits. Ideal for picnics or any casual dining. Try it with mixed meze.
The Vintry, Dublin 6; The Malt House, Trim, Co Meath; JJ O’Driscoll, Cork; Deveney’s, Dublin 14; McHugh’s, Dublin 5; The Wine Centre Kilkenny
The Wild Irishman Doctor’s Flat Pinot Noir 2023, Central Otago
13.5%, €50-60
Perfumed with layers of dark forest fruits, piquant morello cherries and spice, with a very fine acidity and good length. Enjoy now with roast duck and mushroom dishes or keep.
Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, Co Dublin; World Wide Wines, Waterford; 1601, Kinsale, Co Cork; Redmond’s, Dublin 6
Neudorf Tom’s Block Pinot Noir 2019, Nelson
13.5%, €31.50
Now fully mature, elegant and fragrant with supple fruits. Fresh blackberries and red cherries with an attractive earthiness. Try it with ham or roast pork.
Fíon Eile, Dublin 7; JNwine.com