For curious onlookers hoping to get in on the fashion week hullabaloo, Christian Siriano was almost the miracle on 34th Street.
As the new creative director of Macy’s’ private label I.N.C., his show was supposed to parade outside of its flagship at Herald Square but was moved inside at the last minute — so goes public event planning in New York City. “But you know what?” offered an ebullient Siriano. “This is exactly what I really wanted.”
What he really wanted was something “salon-style,” and he delivered. Plush bone carpeting blanketed the lower accessories level, with mounds of white hydrangeas trellising the matching drapes. “When you walk in, you feel like you’re in a dream world, somewhere else for 20 minutes.”
That’s the magic of Macy’s and all department stores and, for under half an hour, Whoopi Goldberg, Oprah and Lizzo were whisked into an Old Hollywood film noir starring Marlene Dietrich reimagined through Siriano’s ‘80s arch glamour lens.
Coco Rocha hammed it up in the opener, looking like career Barbie with her flying saucer hat and an exaggerated skirt suit in clashing stripes and polka dots. The latter is shaping up to be a major trend in New York and velvet ones decorated enormous loofa-like taffeta poufs, erupting from just about every part of the human anatomy. “It’s a lot of shapes,” quipped Siriano.
Sinuous gowns in laminated lace and metallized silk were more Oscar-worthy, especially one in white chiffon with crystals lining the boned corset. For the guys, a corseted tuxedo jacket with tails that swept the floor was equally winning.
Corsetry also inspired Siriano’s take on I.N.C.’s signature black blazer, celebrating 40 years. Spliced into pieces and with oversize shoe laces tying it together, it was modeled by Ava Claire and will be auctioned off, with the proceeds going to the CFDA.
Apart from I.N.C., Siriano tied up with Capri Sun for a silver clutch bag with beaded orange and cherry fringe and the newly minted Humane World for Animals on a maxi coat look printed with an entire zoo.
While these felt gimmicky, bursting the fantasy bubble, what brought you back to the land of Oz were jolts of teal, lavender and hot pink after 51 turns in black-and-white. Siriano said: “The whole thing ends as if somebody turned on the color.”