Creative director Norbert Stumpfl continues to evolve Brioni’s sartorial expertise in the brand’s womenswear range, with discreet understatement and superior handcrafted details.
This season felt more experimental, with a new, more fluid silhouette and roomier pants.
However, the designs were often shown cinched at the waist with high leather belts, bringing the focus onto this part of the body. “The belt adds another touch of femininity, and can easily change any look, so that a woman can choose depending on how she feels,” Stumpfl said.
Sleeveless jackets without lapels were embellished with large tone-on-tone buttons. Cuts on the sides of jackets and skirts contributed to the lightness that is always key to the designer’s vision for Brioni. This was reflected in the fabrics — airy silk seersucker, featherweight cashmere, linen-silk blends and crepe de chine, all unlined.
A new square-cut neckline highlighted the décolleté in a jacket dress, for example, adding a new sensuous touch. Boxy shirtdresses and elongated men’s-style shirts were rendered in lightweight cottons. A safari jacket in technical silk with leather details was another new development for the brand.
Stumpfl introduced a new powder pink hue that was in sync with the beige, cream, pale ocher and soft blue palette.