In the span of a few seasons as Ports 1961’s design director, Francesco Bertolini is finding his footing exploring the vast but not necessarily directional legacy of the brand founded by Canadian entrepreneur Luke Tanabe, with an original focus on travel.
Bertolini is still a subtle voice whose work is starting to shape up as one playing in same league as the quietly edgy and somewhat intellectual brands, à la Khaite and The Row, sitting at the intersection of craft and minimalism with a luxe urban spin.
The spring collection repeated some of Bertolini’s key tropes, from his technique-obsessive use of fabrics to the restraint and posed attitude of his statuesque concoctions.
In an apparent attempt to propose a full wardrobe running the gamut of occasions of use and demographics, the lineup again pursued a few too many ideas — all anchored in a measured nod to Greece with its landscapes, culture, artistry and relaxed attitude.
There were a lot of desirable and fascinating pieces, including flapper tank frocks swathed in tassel-like fringes, or asymmetrical tanks tops textured via handmade pleats or covered in raw-hemmed strips of fabric running vertically, which evoked both the fluting of classical Greek columns and sea waves breaking on the shore.
Delicate slipdresses swathed in mother-of-pearl sequins, layered atop terrific bouclé rib knits and frocks with asymmetrical round slashes revealing contrasting pleated sides straddled everyday practicality and refinement.
Elsewhere, daywear was still a work in progress as the trenchcoats — floor-sweeping or cropped just below the hips — and lightweight parkas looked a bit fussy.
Bertolini’s vision is super sophisticated, sometimes even too impeccable. A few flaws might let his light shine even brighter.