Osaka was once known as a “ramen desert” for its lackluster noodle offerings, but is today a thriving hotspot. From long-loved shops with the air of old street stalls to sleek, modern spots with Michelin recognition, the city is blessed with a variety of styles attracting domestic and international fans alike. A look at the history of Osaka ramen and some “must eat” bowls.
The Birth of Takaida-kei and the Growth of Osaka Ramen
No discussion of Osaka ramen could start without a look at “Takaida-kei” ramen, a style made with extra thick noodles in a soy-sauce-based shōyu soup. This style originated around the Takaida region, which spreads across the city of Higashi-Osaka and the Higashinari district in Osaka itself. In the immediate aftermath of World War II, the bowls became a favorite of the area’s laborers who needed cheap, filling meals. Ever since, it has had a reputation among ramen connoisseurs.
Around the same time, the entertainment districts of Osaka were lined with yatai street stalls popular as spots to stop after work—or a night’s drinking—for a bowl. At the time, there were few ramen restaurants as such, and ramen was considered street food.
Change Comes to the Ramen Desert
In the 1970s and 1980s, yatai were gradually replaced by permanent shops. Still, ramen was slow to take a spot as a key player in Osaka’s local food culture.
Osaka has a reputation as a foodie city, with many deeply rooted local specialties in the konamon, or flour-heavy, class like takoyaki octopus dumplings. Even though ramen is also made from wheat flour, it never took a central role on local tables. Up until the 1990s, most people thought that ramen would never really take off in Osaka. When it came to noodles, Osakans most often turned to udon because of the common preference for dashi stock.
But things changed in the 2000s. A ramen boom swept Japan, and the dish earned a gourmet reputation. Osaka joined in, and ramen finally became part of the city’s food culture. People began to line up at shops known for tasty bowls. Shops made a point of crafting offerings that lived or died on cooking skills alone, avoiding artificial flavors and MSG. Even local media got involved, with magazines and televisions shows putting out special ramen content.
The “ramen desert” days are over. Osaka now ranks alongside Tokyo, the center of national ramen culture, for delicious bowls and fierce competition in the noodles space.
Cooking Skills and Postable Bowls
With good flavor a given, the demand has now spread for something extra. This is the age of social media, and ramen needs to be photogenic as well as delicious. Osaka is no exception, and its shops are giving attention to visual appeal and atmosphere. The appeal to casuals is ramping up the ramen boom.
Now, let’s talk about some must-eat bowls to be found in the city of Osaka. From originators of Osaka-style ramen to world-famous Michelin-recognized shops, touring the eight outlets featured here will give you a full taste of all Osaka has to offer.
Chūkasoba Kōyōken (Fukae-Minami, Higashinari)
Founded in 1953 as a yatai in the days before the word “ramen” was widely recognized in the region, this shop is still a favorite and known as the “birthplace of Takaida-kei ramen.”
Kinryū Ramen Dōtonbori Branch (Dōtonbori, Chūō)
Born as a rival to yatai ramen. Ever since its 1980 founding on Dōtonbori, it has been treasured both by tourists and locals on their way home after a night out, and has become a symbol for Osaka’s ramen.
Char Siu Men at Chūkasoba Kōyōken (left) and the basic Ramen at Kinryū Ramen Dōtonbori (right). (© Yamakawa Daisuke)
Kadoya Shokudō Sōhonten (Shinmachi, Nishi)
This is a leader of Osaka’s 2000s ramen boom. Its most popular dish, the simple Chūkasoba, is the pinnacle of shōyu ramen orthodoxy.
Jinrui Mina Menrui (Nishi-Nakajima, Yodogawa)
This shop is getting a lot of attention with younger diners for its unusual name and the livestreams shown inside. The ramen itself is also quite solid, though—it’s not just a show.
Chūkasoba from Kadoya Shokudō Sōhonten at left, with Ramen Genten (Usugiri Yakibuta) from Jinrui Mina Menrui at right. (© Yamakawa Daisuke)
Ramen Jinsei Jet Fukushima Branch (Fukushima, Fukushima)
This shop attracts long lines in Osaka’s hottest ramen battleground district. The clear yet rich chicken-based soup is overflowing with umami.
Torisoba Zagin (Edobori, Nishi)
This is the very image of a modern ramen shop, perfectly mixing artisanal skill and Instagrammability. The carefully arranged fried burdock root makes each bowl a work of art.
Torinikomi Soba from Ramen Jinsei Jet at left, and the Torisoba from Torisoba Zagin at right. (© Yamakawa Daisuke)
Chūkasoba Kirimen Sōhonten (Jūsōhonmachi, Yodogawa)
A unique shop focusing solely on the flavor of noodles with no broth at all.
Mugi to Mensuke (Toyosaki, Kita)
This shop has a line no matter when you go and has earned a Bib Gourmand award from 2020 on from the Michelin Guide.
The Kiritama from Chūkasoba Kirimen Sōhonten at left, and Kuradashi Shōyusoba from Mugi to Mensuke at right. (© Yamakawa Daisuke)
(Originally published in Japanese. Banner photo: Various types of ramen from Osaka. © Yamakawa Daisuke.)