The development process took three years and generated 10 iterations before the product was finalised, according to Nicolas Travis, founder and CEO of the actively expanding brand.
“It was a formula that I created for myself as a fun project. I wanted to create something non-exfoliating that would support my quest for glass skin — the type of healthy, radiant skin that is clear and reflects light; one that has refined pores.
“As I first developed it as a pore refiner, it took a while to find the best, most efficacious pore refiners. So, the challenge was making sure that I had a delicious texture despite the very concentrated 56 ingredients and without breaking the formula,” Travis told CosmeticsDesign-Asia.
Called the Founder’s Essence 56 Ellagic & P.A.D. Light Reflecting Fluid, the product’s standout innovation is said to be its delivery system as well as the way that all the ingredients “play together” to give the most visible results.
“We’ve been known for our supercharged formulas, so this direction isn’t something novel for us. It’s not about the actives per se, but rather how they work in tandem to deliver the most effective results.
“As this is the first Founder’s Drop, the reason why we decided to count all the ingredients, including solubilisers and preservatives, is because these help make the formula stronger — just like how light functions. Light has spectra. Our scar tissue and the lessons we’ve learnt in life make us whole, and it’s our wholeness that helps us radiate our light.”
The Light Reflecting Fluid will be launched in Singapore on August 20, with progressive rollouts in other markets to be expected.
In terms of new product development, Travis said that the brand has a “really exciting pipeline”, such as expansion of its epidermal growth factors (EGFs) line, which would be announced in due course.
Potent yet lightweight
The new essence’s key ingredients include a 3.3% ellagic and prebiotics complex.
Ellagic acid is a naturally occurring antioxidant that can help brighten skin, improve dark spots and discolouration, and protect skin from environmental damage, while prebiotics help restore and maintain a healthy microbiome balance, and offset factors leading to red or dry skin.
Another important ingredient is 2.5% ectoin and goji complex.
A natural amino acid derivative, ectoin (extremolyte) possesses skin-protecting and repairing properties to prevent cell damage caused by extrinsic and intrinsic factors, such as pollution, extreme temperatures, or chemical stress. The antioxidant-rich goji plant extract also helps defend the skin from environmental damage.
The incorporation of 1.3% copper sulfate pore refining complex contributes to visible refining of enlarged pores and smoothing of irregular skin texture. In addition, copper sulfate is known for its antimicrobial properties.
Furthermore, the 6% Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) complex has many of the same benefits.
PAD is a derivative of azelaic acid known for its brightening and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a gentle ingredient that is said to be effective in controlling acne via sebum-regulating activity, and in improving uneven skin tone, blemishes, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Despite its high content of actives, the essence is claimed to have a lightweight texture, and has been tested to deliver clear complexion after one week of usage.
Based on results of a self-assessment done by 31 participants, 87% saw a smoother skin surface after twice-daily use for seven days.
After twice-daily use for 28 days, 87% said that their skin looks illuminated, 97% saw brighter skin, 94% had skin that reflects light, 94% experienced refined, glowing skin, 90% had clearer skin, 90% felt their skin quality had improved, and 84% had more hydrated skin.
“I wanted to create a lightweight yet potent fluid that would reduce breakouts, fade pigmentation, strengthen skin barrier, refine the appearance of pores, and help skin reflect light better.
“Through my experience, I’ve learnt that having a complexion with even skin tone that glows and reflect light is the best approach. When your skin is glowing with health and reflecting light, all your perceived imperfections appear less obvious.”