Instead of a show, Stine Goya collaborated with creative studio File Under Pop and Michelin-star chef Morten Falk on Tuesday night. Guests, who included members of the Stine Goya team, had hand-painted plates and personalised painted coasters. Painted drapes lined the archways, with bowls of cherries and mountains of whipped butter on display. The food was equally aesthetic, with stuffed courgette flowers and plates of candied fruit.
On Tuesday, Scandi homeware label Tekla hosted a breakfast, with platters of plums and Danish pastries and plates of cheese on a bun in perfect straight lines. On Wednesday, New Balance hosted a pop-up in Nytorv square, in collaboration with local café Atelier September, with rye bread and tomatoes served (again) with whipped butter. The Garment has a pink-themed dinner, with a display made up of cotton candy and pink peas.
Trends to note
Perhaps it’s because Scandi designers took their holidays in June and July, while prepping their shows, but a lot of the collections this season felt resort inspired. Flip flops continue to dominate the runway, continuing from the men’s SS26 season. There was a Havaianas collaboration at Opéra Sport, beaded styles at Cmmn Swdn and raffia versions at Alis. When it came to the clothes, there was plenty of relaxed fringing at MKDT Studio, raffia at Cmmn Swdn and Iamisigo, and sheer summer dresses at Rave Review. For many smaller Copenhagen brands, they perhaps don’t do a resort collection, so it makes sense to provide looks across the summer season.
Of course, it wouldn’t be Copenhagen without plenty of minimalist tailoring, and Hsu notes that colour palettes felt particularly toned down this season.
But designers like Bonnetje, MKDT Studio, Stel, Mark Quad and PLN played with styling and silhouette for SS26, to create unique looks that stand out. Agathe Cloé Vaissiere, womenswear buyer at Printemps, says that consumers today are looking for interesting twists on classic silhouettes, as more and more move away from quiet luxury. “I saw a lot of deconstructed tailoring, fringing and panels,” adds Marine Humeau, buying manager at Printemps.
“I’ve seen a nice balance of relevancy and inspirational fashion this week,” says Nordstrom’s associate fashion director Linda Cui Zhang. “It’s wonderful to discover brands that customers can easily integrate into their wardrobes (Birrot), as well as brands focused on high-craft and luxury materials (Ranra, Freya Dalsjø).”