t Celine’s limestone-floored headquarters on Rue Vivienne, in Paris, the show took place under a gentle light. Models — both male and female — wove through the beats of The Cure, their oversized rugby shirts and old-school ties displaying a preppy American vibe in a co-ed collection that felt both new and reassuringly familiar.
Michael Rider — the new creative director of Celine — showcased his pedigree in full. After formative years under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, the electric Philo period at Celine, and a stint as creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren, he brought an American sportswear mentality to Parisian chic. “I hope people want things that last,” he said backstage. “I don’t think things that last have to feel unexciting. And I think when those two things meet, that’s kind of the place I love — things that you keep, that you can be yourself in, and that are quality.”
And quality was everywhere. There were beautiful coats — camel, ivory, black — alongside grass-green, scarlet and beige jackets. Scarves returned in a triumphant wave as the overall theme. Black-and-ivory silk bandanas were wrapped around the neck, passed through belt buckles, and hung from handbags, highlighting the importance of accessories.
“Scarves are something I wear and everyone wears differently,” Rider explained. “Everyone wears them their own way. They last; they’re keepsakes. At Celine, they matter.” Tailoring retained its Celine DNA: strong-shouldered jackets with high-buttoned Empire waists, and narrow, buttonless coats with cutaway openings. The pants ranged from legging-slim to culotte-wide, some trimmed with satin tuxedo stripes. He spoke of building on Celine’s foundation, “I’ve loved the idea of clothing that becomes part of the wearer’s life — capturing moments, spanning years, holding memories of past, present and future.”
This debut was more than a safe bridge between eras; it was a field where heritage and horizon met. His Celine is, at once, a crowd-pleaser and a quiet revolution — classic pieces gilded with just enough edge to feel utterly of now.
– Images: Courtesy of Celine