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What is the best place to buy a luxury watch? In China, more and more high-end shoppers are turning to social media. That is an opportunity for luxury brands seeking younger customers. For social networks themselves — including TikTok, currently the subject of a complex US-China carve-up — it could be a big driver of value.
The first to benefit from this trend has been Douyin, TikTok’s sister platform in China. There, shoppers buy luxury items the same way they buy lipstick or air fryers: by tapping into a livestream. A chatty host demos products and makes jokes, while viewers can buy anything they see on the stream with a single tap. It has become the default way millions of young consumers shop in the country.
Douyin sold 46 per cent more merchandise by value in the year to July than it did in the same period of 2024, according to the company. It became the third-largest online shopping platform in China last year. European brands have taken notice. Versace has hosted livestreams and opened an official Douyin flagship store. Burberry joined the platform’s “Super Brand Day” and collaborated with Douyin to dress virtual avatars.
TikTok is trying to replicate Douyin’s success globally by rolling out many of the same features in markets such as the US, including in-app checkout systems, product search tabs and shoppable videos. Its brand makes its push into luxury a tough sell: outside China, TikTok’s commerce business is more like a virtual dollar store.
Its efforts may nonetheless bear fruit. After all, TikTok and its ilk have a strong following among the young. More than half of Gen Z discovers products on Instagram and TikTok, according to Emarketer. Gen Z’s share of global luxury spending is expected to rise from 4 per cent today to 25 per cent by 2030, according to BCG.
This suggests that luxury groups — which have historically been cautious about selling on social media due to brand dilution concerns — may reconsider. Staying away from TikTok would mean missing out on their largest group of future customers.
Even if the luxury companies themselves prove hard to sway, they are not the only ones selling handbags. The market for second-hand fashion and luxury is growing rapidly. The global resale market size is projected to reach up to $360bn in the next five years, according to BCG. An average annual growth rate of 10 per cent means resale is growing nearly three times faster than the primary luxury market. Resale platforms like The RealReal have seen rising shopper demand and growing investor interest.
With younger consumers increasingly important and sellers proliferating, the next phase of the luxury market overlaps neatly with social media platforms. Future luxury buyers are now forming their brand loyalties, and TikTok is becoming the place where they do it.
june.yoon@ft.com








