What if you want to see as much as possible of a mechanical movement, without compromising the practicality of an automatic one? The simplest answer, sort of, is the micro-rotor automatic, of course. This neatly integrates a small winding mass into the movement, without obscuring it from view. It also challenges manufacturers to flex their watchmaking muscles as it requires more and smaller components. It’s far from the easiest solution, though, but the end result is superbly rewarding. So with that in mind, here’s a look at some of the finest micro-rotor automatic watches on the market!
Schwarz Etienne 1902 Petite Seconde
Schwarz Etienne is quite well-known for its impressive in-house movements, and the 1902 Petite Seconde is one of the latest to carry that tradition forward. The elegantly proportioned time-only watch comes in three Sector-like dial variations: Silver, Slate Grey, or Rose Gold (salmon!). But the real star of the show is found around the back, with the Calibre ASE300.00. The micro-rotor sends up to 86 hours of energy to the barrel, and is joined by four elegant finger bridges. The finishing of it all is of the highest level, with hand-polished teeth on the ratchet wheel, for instance. Worn on a leather strap, it retails for CHF 18,000.
For more information, please visit Schwarz-Etienne.com.
Quick Facts – 39mm x 10.9mm – titanium, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – silver, slate grey or rose gold dial – sector layout – polished indices & hands – recessed small seconds subdial – Calibre ASE300.00 – in-house automatic with micro-rotor – 191 components – 21,600vph – 86h power reserve – hours, minutes, (hacking) seconds – alligator or calfskin leather strap with titanium pin buckle – CHF 18,000
Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic
With the revamp of the Tambour two years ago, Louis Vuitton entered the luxury sports watch segment with a bang, and following from the stainless steel versions, came this surprising brown ceramic version! The scratch-proof exterior is combined with 18k rose gold elements for a unique look, a styling cue that also finds its way to the dial. The Calibre LFT023, developed with Le Cercle des Horlogers, is driven by a 22k gold micro-rotor with the famous LV motif as a decoration. The rest shows a rather contemporary style of finishing, and the watch is fitted with a ceramic and gold bracelet. It’s not limited per se, and it retails for EUR 75,000.
For more information, please visit LouisVuitton.com.
Quick Facts – 40mm x 8.3mm – brown ceramic & 18k rose gold case – ceramic crown – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – stepped brown dial – rose gold markers & hands – Calibre LFT023, proprietary micro-rotor automatic (Les Cercle des Horlogers) – 28,800vph – 50h power reserve – 22k gold micro-rotor – hours, minutes, small seconds – integrated brown ceramic & rose gold bracelet with invisible rose gold triple-folding clasp – EUR 75,000
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition
The Calibre 96 series by Chopard is a legend in the field of micro-rotors. It has served as the base for plenty of winners in the brand’s wonderful L.U.C line, including this one, the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition. Under the Qualité Fleurier certification, the yellow gold and brown dress watch surpasses the most stringent quality standards in the Swiss industry. At the heart of the watch beats the Calibre 96.09-L, an in-house micro-rotor automatic with Chopard’s Twin-Barrel system for 65 hours of power reserve. Limited to 20 pieces, one for each year the QF certification has been in use, this one retails for EUR 33,000.
For more information, please visit Chopard.com.
Quick Facts – 39mm x 8.92mm – yellow gold case, brushed & polished – individually welded lugs – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – two-tone sector dial – gilded hour markers & hands – Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L, in-house automatic – Qualité Fleurier certified – 28,800vph – 65h power reserve – 22k golf micro-rotor – brown calfskin leather strap with yellow gold pin buckle – limited to 20 pieces – EUR 33,000
Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon Blue
If a dress watch has to incorporate a date display, the way Laurent Ferrier has integrated it into the design of its Classic Auto is perhaps one of the best ways to do it. The latest, finished in fresh Horizon Blue, continues the brand’s legacy in superb watchmaking, both in design and in mechanics. The pebble-shaped steel case, 40mm in width and fully polished, wears beautifully on the wrist and houses the brand’s Calibre LF270.01. This proprietary automatic has a platinum micro-rotor and is finished to the highest standards. It’s worn on a taupe goat-leather strap with a steel pin buckle, and is part of the permanent collection. The price is CHF 45,000.
For more information, please visit LaurentFerrier.ch.
Quick Facts – 40mm x 11.94mm – stainless steel case, polished – ball-shaped crown – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – light blue galvanic lacquered dial – dark blue transfers – drop-shaped indices, Assegai-shaped hands – recessed date ‘frame’ – Calibre LF270.01, proprietary automatic – platinum micro-rotor – 28,800vph – 72h power reserve – taupe goat-leather strap with steel pin buckle – permanent collection – CHF 45,000
Piaget Polo 79 White Gold
Probably the most outspoken design of the watches on this list, the Piaget Polo 79 in White Gold is a true stunner front to back. It rekindles Yves Piaget’s iconic 1979 design, with horizontal gadroons across the bracelet, case and dial. First presented in yellow gold, this white gold edition tones things down a touch without compromising its character. Inside ticks the Piaget Calibre 1200P1, an ultra-thin in-house micro-rotor automatic. A neat touch is the circular Côtes de Genève on the mainplate, which continues on the top of the rotor. The white gold bracelet is seamlessly integrated into the case. It will set you back EUR 85,500 incl. VAT.
For more information, please visit Piaget.com.
Quick Facts – 38mm x 7.45mm – white gold case, brushed & polished – horizontal gadroons – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – striped gold dial with gadroons – 18k gold hands – Piaget Calibre 1200P1, in-house automatic – micro-rotor automatic – 21,600vph – 44h power reserve – hours, minutes – circular Côtes de Genève – 18k white gold bracelet with gadroons – triple-folding clasp – permanent collection – EUR 85,500 incl. VAT
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Yellow Gold
It goes without saying that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a modern-day icon of watchmaking. The ultra-thin collection has genuinely challenged the status quo, breaking records left and right. The Octo Finissimo Automatic is at the core of it all, perhaps, coming in at just 6.40mm in height. Over the years, we’ve seen it in all sorts of materials and finishes. This matte sand-blasted yellow gold edition is one of the latest and greatest in the series, relying on the ultra-thin calibre BVL 138, driven by a platinum micro-rotor. The equally edgy integrated bracelet matches the case in terms of finishing. Part of the permanent collection, it retails for EUR 51,500.
For more information, please visit Bulgari.com.
Quick Facts – 40mm x 6.40mm – 18k yellow gold case, matte sand-blasted – flat sapphire crystal front & back – screw-down crown with black ceramic cap – 100m water-resistant – sandblasted yellow gold dial – black markers & hands – Calibre BVL 138 – manufacture ultra-thin automatic – platinum micro-rotor – 21,600vph – 60h power reserve – integrated matte-sandblasted yellow gold bracelet – hidden folding clasp – permanent collection – EUR 51,500
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