Addressing Misconceptions in Skin of Color Dermatology

On August 6, the Science of Skin and Scalp Studio opened its doors at Home Studios in New York City for a 1-day immersive event focused on awareness, education, and authentic conversations around chronic skin and scalp conditions. Building on 5 years of the Science of Skin initiative, the Studio was designed to spark dialogue between dermatologists, beauty experts, and patient influencers living with inflammatory diseases.1 Attendees moved through interactive experiences such as The Derm Desk, The Scalp Lab, and The Beauty Bar, each tackling unique aspects of skin and scalp health.

At The Derm Desk, Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, FAAD, dermatologist and director of the Skin of Color Division at the University of Miami, led a myth-busting discussion on the challenges faced by patients with skin of color. In an interview with Dermatology Times following the event, Woolery-Lloyd expanded on these themes, offering clinical insights into misconceptions, disease presentation, and strategies to improve culturally sensitive care.

Misconceptions in Patient and Clinician Perspectives

One of the most significant patient misconceptions, Woolery-Lloyd explained, is the delay in seeking dermatologic care for scalp and hair conditions. She noted, “I definitely think there’s this misconception that when you have hair loss, you see your hair stylist, you ask your friend, your aunt, anyone else, and really you should really be making a beeline straight to the dermatologist for scalp conditions.”

From a clinician’s standpoint, she added that treatment recommendations have not always accounted for textured hair practices. “People might say, ‘Oh, you need to wash your hair every single day with a medicated shampoo.’ And we know in women with textured hair that’s not realistic. It’s never going to happen because the hair styling process can take hours.”

Woolery-Lloyd emphasized the importance of offering patients choices that fit their hair type and styling routine. “Some people might like oil formulation. Depending on their hair type or texture or hairstyle, some might prefer a solution. So I don’t assume anything for my patients when it comes to the topical treatment of scalp conditions. I explain to my patients there are many different vehicles available — which would you prefer? You might want an ointment, you might want an oil, you might want a foam. You might want a liquid solution. I don’t make the decision. I tell the patient what’s available and kind of help them decide what works best for the hairstyle.”

Differences in Disease Presentation

Clinicians must also be vigilant in recognizing how inflammatory conditions manifest differently across skin tones. Speaking on eczema, Woolery-Lloyd explained, “Erythema is might not be as visible, and might look different instead of being bright pink or red, and might look red brown, violaceous or more purple. It might even just look like hyperpigmentation.”

She added that in some patients of African descent, eczema is more likely to present with a papular morphology. “They will have eczema that presents more papular, so more likely to have tiny little bumps and versus patches and plaques.” Distribution may also vary: “Its more likely to present on the extensor surfaces, so this part of the arm versus the inner arm.”

Psoriasis follows similar patterns, with redness less apparent and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) often persisting after plaques resolve.2 As Woolery-Lloyd noted, “Although there’s no more inflammation, no more scale, you still have these dark brown plaques all over the body, and visually it’s the same to the patient.”

The Importance of Early Intervention

Whether managing alopecia, eczema, or psoriasis, early diagnosis is central to outcomes. Woolery-Lloyd highlighted this particularly in the context of hair loss: “Definitely with inflammatory scalp conditions, and specifically with alopecia, early intervention is really important, especially for scarring alopecia, is where the inflammation can lead to scarring of the hair follicles.”

She stressed that patients often delay seeking medical care, trying at-home or community remedies first. “People sometimes will get a little patch of hair loss or a little something, and see their hairstylist, ask friends, ask family members, look online. Do an at home treatment. Try all of these things before they get to the dermatologist.”

Building Trust Through Listening and Cultural Sensitivity

Beyond medical management, Woolery-Lloyd underscored the critical role of communication. “I would say the best thing is just to listen. It’s hard, because we’re in busy practices, and we only have a certain period of time to see our patients beginning to end. But especially in a first patient visit, that might be a time to kind of pause, ask open ended questions and listen. Make the patient know that they’re being heard and seen.”

Leveraging Resources and Patient Advocacy

For both patients and clinicians, Woolery-Lloyd recommends established, credible resources. She highlighted organizations such as the Skin of Color Society, National Psoriasis Foundation, and the American Academy of Dermatology’s provider search tools. These resources help patients identify physicians with a specific interest in skin of color and inflammatory skin conditions.

She also emphasized the value of community. “Patient support groups can be very, very helpful. Someone will say, ‘I really love this product, I use it for when I’m going to be sweating a lot outside because it doesn’t budge in the sweat’…Those subtle things that only like it’s patient to patient.”

Key Takeaways

The Science of Skin & Scalp Studio spotlighted the intersection of science, culture, and lived experience. Woolery-Lloyd’s contributions reinforced the importance of early dermatologic care, culturally sensitive treatment planning, and truly listening to patients.

Her message to clinicians is clear: ask questions, listen carefully, and adapt treatments to align with patient needs and cultural practices. For patients, the advice is equally actionable—seek dermatologic care early, connect with knowledgeable providers, and leverage peer support networks for practical insights. In doing so, dermatology can move closer to equitable, personalized care that improves outcomes and patient quality of life across diverse populations.

References

  1. The Science of Skin. AbbVie. Accessed September 2, 2025. https://view.ceros.com/abbvie/science-of-skin/p/1
  2. Gkini MA, Nakamura M, Alexis AF, et al. Psoriasis in people with skin of color: An evidence-based update. Int J Dermatol. 2025;64(4):667-677. doi:10.1111/ijd.17651

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