On the face of it Princess Kate and I are very different people living very different lives. When I travel home from a gruelling session of chemotherapy there’s always a risk I’ll get stabbed on the tram. If she’s on a tram, it would be for a royal engagement. My cheesy pasta is less about fresh ingredients and more about a jar of pesto and a bag of pre-grated cheese. I’m sure her version is much more wholesome. But her comments on Wednesday, July 2, made me realise that as two people affected by cancer, we are both very similar.
Everyone’s cancer journey is different, but by speaking out about the mental impact of treatment, and what happens afterwards, Princess Kate said what I try to say, but in a much better way. Speaking to patients at a cancer wellbeing centre at Colchester Hospital, she discussed the emotional impact of fighting the disease.
Describing it as a “rollercoaster”, Princess Kate said: “There is a whole phase when you finish your treatment, everybody expects you to be better – go! But that’s not the case at all.
“You’re not necessarily under the clinical team any longer but you’re not able to function normally at home as you perhaps once used to.
“And actually someone to help talk you through that, show you and guide you through that sort of phase that comes after treatment I think is really valuable.”
I doubt I will ever get to an “after treatment” phase but my experience last week of being told I don’t have spinal cancer feels pretty close.
First, there was the worry of thinking I could be dead by Christmas, and then, after scan results came back, the wondering what to do now.
How do I readjust my life to get back to fighting my incurable bowel cancer while recognising the spinal cancer scare?
It is the kind of question that thousands of cancer patients grapple with every day. Just what is the best way to tackle the emotional impact of cancer after being left to process good or bad news?
As Princess Kate says, there isn’t an easy answer. For me, the solution is why I’m leading the Daily Express’s Cancer Care campaign.
Cancer is the worst thing that most people will experience in their lifetime, and the emotional impact of it can tear people apart, even more than the physical side effects. This is why we are calling for all patients to have mental health support both during and after their treatment.
Princess Kate recognises just how important this is, and I hope the NHS and the Department of Health listen to her and us and make sure it’s available for all patients across the country.
Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh smile and wave as the royal train pulls out of Euston in 1977
Euston Station, 1937: The royal train sits quietly at the platform with a policeman posted outside to guard young Princess Elizabeth; suddenly he hears a soft knock on the carriage window behind him.
The future Queen beckons him inside. “Here’s a shilling,” she says. “Can you go and get me a comic please?”
This is one of many anecdotes told by those who worked on the train that are now preserved by journalist and author Phil Marsh.
He says with a laugh: “Can you imagine being the policeman who’s supposed to be guarding the heir to the throne and then being told to go and buy a comic?”
Reportedly, the officer did just that.
royaltrain.co.uk
The train is kept and maintained at Wolverton Works in Buckinghamshire
In 2027, 90 years after this moment took place, the royal train will be pulled from service.
Buckingham Palace has taken the decision to decommission the historic rolling stock as part of a “drive to ensure we deliver value for money”.
It will be taken around the UK before it is removed from service.
Mr Marsh first became associated with the train in 1997 when he was tasked with putting together a business case to sell it, but he says it “fortunately didn’t stack up”.
He made friends with Leo Coleman, project manager at Wolverton Works, Buckinghamshire, where the train is kept, who was responsible for modernising the train for the Queen’s silver jubilee in 1977.
After Mr Coleman died he was left his archive and tasked with chronicling its story, and he has shared some of those memories for this article.
royaltrain.co.uk
Writer Phil Marsh has documented memories from Leo Coleman (left) and Chris Hillyard (right)
The comic book story was documented by Chris Hillyard, the last foreman of the train, who died in November with cancer.
On another occasion Mr Hillyard was on the train, alongside the Queen, when he noticed a smell of smoke.
He stopped the train and asked the signalman to block the adjacent railway while he investigated the fault.
While he was doing this, the Queen appeared at the window, apparently unaware the other line had been closed.
She said: “Oh, Mr Hillyard, I’ll be your lookout. It’ll be quite safe.”
“Yes, ma’am. Thank you,” he responded politely.
royaltrain.co.uk
Queen Victoria used the royal train during her diamond jubilee in 1897
Queen Adelaide was the first member of the Royal Family to have a carriage built for the royal train in 1842.
It continued to be used by members of the Royal Family, including Queen Victoria, who would often stop at Wolverton for a refreshment break as the train did not have toilets.
In 1869 Wolverton Works built the very first bespoke royal carriages for Queen Victoria, costing £1,800. The monarch donated £800.
A special shed was constructed for the train in 1869 at Wolverton but has since been converted to flats, though the train has remained at the site for its entire history.
King Edward VII innovated in 1901 when he introduced electricity, powered by the steam engine, but a generator was eventually installed in 1941 alongside radio and telephones.
In 1977, when Mr Coleman was tasked with upgrading the royal train for the jubilee, the focus shifted from luxury to function.
Members of the Royal Family were expected to live and work on the train for long periods, requiring functional design changes such as an office.
royaltrain.co.uk
Phil Marsh described the royal train during the era of Queen Victoria as a ‘palace on wheels’
The first journey after the 1977 upgrade was from Euston to Glasgow.
After completing their engagement Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh asked to speak to Mr Coleman.
“Everything all right, ma’am?” he asked.
“No,” she responded, “what’s happened to the old ironing board?”
As part of the improvements a new ironing board had been installed but the Queen’s lady-in-waiting wanted the old one back.
Mr Coleman called Wolverton Works and a member of staff had to find it and carry it to Glasgow on the next available train.
Reuters
King Charles III has used the royal train a number of times during his reign
Today, the seven carriages that make up the royal train are owned by Network Rail while the locomotives named King’s Messenger and Royal Sovereign are owned by DB Cargo UK.
Gemini Rail Services run Wolverton Works, where the train is maintained.
Engineers from DB Cargo and personnel from Gemini are on board during all journeys in case something goes wrong.
The seven carriages include a saloon for King Charles, which includes his own bedroom and lounge.
There is also his day coach, a restaurant cart and a dining cart, and the remaining carts are for use of support staff.
DB Cargo told the BBC when the royal contract expires on 31 March 2027 it will retain its locomotives and may put them on other traffic.
Network Rail has been asked what it plans to do with its carriages, but has not yet responded.
Mr Marsh, who documents the train’s history on the website royaltrain.co.uk, hopes they will be kept in a museum.
“Every carriage on the train has been designated as part of the national collection,” he explained.
“Designation means that it can’t be scrapped. It will need to go to a museum whether it’s at York or any other museum is up for debate.”
Gaza: Doctors Under Attack. Photograph: Channel 4/Basement Films
Summed up in a sentence A belated airing of the hugely controversial documentary that the BBC refused to show: a horrifying investigation into claims that Israel’s Defence Force has systematically targeted Palestinian medics.
What our reviewer said “This is the sort of television that will never leave you. It will provoke an international reaction, and for extremely good cause. Forget what got it stopped at the BBC. It is here now and, regardless of how that happened, we owe it to the subjects to not look away.” Stuart Heritage
Read the full review
Further reading Gaza film’s producer accuses BBC of trying to gag him over decision to drop it
Pick of the rest
Such Brave Girls
BBC iPlayer; available now
Kat Sadler as Josie, Louise Brealey as Deb and Lizzie Davidson as Billie in Such Brave Girls. Photograph: James Stack/BBC/Various Artists
Summed up in a sentence The second series of a brilliant, startlingly feral comedy about a trio of troubled female relatives – whose first outing won a comedy Bafta.
What our reviewer said “Such Brave Girls won’t be to everyone’s tastes. But if you like your comedy scary, lairy and perfectly portioned, it is a total knockout.” Hannah J Davies
Read the full review
Further reading ‘Who else can we annoy with our show?’: Such Brave Girls, Britain’s most gleefully offensive comedy returns
Attack on London: Hunting the 7/7 Bombers
Netflix; full series available
Summed up in a sentence Interviewees including Tony Blair feature in this absolutely comprehensive look at how the 2005 London transport bombings prompted the UK’s largest criminal investigation.
What our reviewer said “Though it is by now a familiar story, this evokes the fear, confusion and panic of that day in heart-racing detail.” Rebecca Nicholson
Read the full review
You may have missed …
Shifty
BBC iPlayer; all episodes available
Adam Curtis’s Shifty. Photograph: Adam Curtis
Summed up in a sentence Adam Curtis applies his archive-footage packed documentary style to explaining how the atomisation of UK society has destroyed our democracy – with mesmerising results.
What our reviewer said “It is an increasing rarity to stand in the presence of anyone with an idea, a thesis, that they have thoroughly worked out to their own satisfaction and then presented stylishly, exuberantly and still intelligently. The hell and the handcart feel that bit more bearable now.” Lucy Mangan
Read the full review
Further reading Thatcher, Farage and toe-sucking: Adam Curtis on how Britain came to the brink of civil war
Film
If you only watch one, make it …
Jurassic World Rebirth
In cinemas now
Jurassic World Rebirth. Photograph: Universal Pictures and Amblin Entertainment
Summed up in a sentence Near-extinct franchise roars back to life as latest instalment offers Spielberg-style set pieces and excellent romantic chemistry between leads Scarlett Johansson and Jonathan Bailey.
What our reviewer said “This new Jurassic adventure isn’t doing anything so very different from the earlier successful models, perhaps, and I could have done without its outrageous brand synergy product placement for certain brands of chocolate bar. But it feels relaxed and sure-footed in its Spielberg pastiche, its big dino-jeopardy moments and its deployment of thrills and laughs.” Peter Bradshaw
Read the full review
Further reading ‘The script didn’t have Jurassic World on the front’: Gareth Edwards on Monsters, Godzilla, Star Wars and reinventing dinosaurs
Pick of the rest
The Shrouds
In cinemas now
Vincent Cassel and Diane Kruger in The Shrouds.
Summed up in a sentence Elaborate necrophiliac meditation on loss and longing from David Cronenberg, starring Vincent Cassel as an oncologist who has founded a restaurant with a hi-tech cemetery attached.
What our reviewer said “The film has its own creepy, enveloping mausoleum atmosphere of disquiet, helped by the jarring electronic score by Howard Shore.” Peter Bradshaw
Read the full review
Further reading ‘Something must have gone wrong with us’: David Cronenberg and Howard Shore on four decades of body horror
Hearts of Darkness: A Film-Maker’s Apocalypse
In cinemas now
Summed up in a sentence Superb documentary about the making of Francis Ford Coppola’s masterpiece Apocalypse Now, with Coppola’s epic meltdown in the jungle.
What our reviewer said “Haemorrhaging money and going insanely over-schedule, Coppola shot his film in the Philippines during burning heat, humidity and monsoons and borrowed army helicopters and pilots from President Ferdinand Marcos, only to find that on many occasions – especially during the legendary Ride of the Valkyries attack scene – filming had to halt as the Filipino military would ask for their helicopters back so they could suppress a communist insurgency. In fact, Coppola found himself reproducing reality on a 1:1 scale.” Peter Bradshaw
Read the full review
Further reading Francis Ford Coppola: ‘Apocalypse Now is not an anti-war film’
Now streaming …
Heads of State
Prime Video; available now
Idris Elba and John Cena in Heads of State. Photograph: FlixPix/Alamy
Summed up in a sentence John Cena and Idris Elba star in fun and well-modulated throwback comedy as the US president and UK prime minister, who team up to escape terrorists.
What our reviewer said “Fun, fiery and totally frivolous, Heads of State is a perfect summer movie with great potential for future sequels.” Andrew Lawrence
Read the full review
Hill
Sky Cinema and Now; available now
Damon Hill in Hill. Photograph: Sky
Summed up in a sentence Compelling story of Formula One star Damon Hill’s trials on and off the racetrack in its depiction of the psychological pressure cooker in which the driver competed.
What our reviewer said “It has quiet, but profound, lessons to impart in its emphasis on the driver’s need to live up to his roistering father Graham, and on the real meaning of victory in the most alpha of environments that is Formula One.” Phil Hoad
Read the full review
Further reading ‘I was angry at the world’: Damon Hill on pain of his father’s death and how it fuelled his rise
Books
If you only read one, make it …
Murderland by Caroline Fraser
Review by Dorian Lynskey
Summed up in a sentence An investigation into the causes of America’s 1970s serial killer epidemic comes up with some surprising answers.
What our reviewer said “It is as hauntingly compulsive a nonfiction book as I have read in a long time. It gets into your blood.”
Read the full review
Pick of the rest
My Sister and Other Lovers by Esther Freud
Review by Joanna Quinn
Summed up in a sentence A sequel to Hideous Kinky, 30 years on, explores the effects of an unconventional upbringing.
What our reviewer said “It’s billed as a novel but arguably occupies an interesting grey area between novel and memoir, resisting the expectations of both and creating something all of its own.”
Read the full review
Further reading ‘When I read my sister’s stories I think, that’s not what it was like!’: Esther Freud on the perils of writing about family
Flashlight by Susan Choi
Review by Beejay Silcox
Summed up in a sentence An ambitious, globe-trotting epic of political and family secrets.
What our reviewer said “Flashlight is all kinds of big: capacious of intent and scope and language and swagger, confronting a chapter of North Korean history that American fiction has barely touched.”
Read the full review
Autocorrect by Etgar Keret
Review by Sam Leith
Summed up in a sentence Deadpan short stories that range from the surreal to the philosophical to the absurd.
What our reviewer said “Not so much one book as a library of tiny books, from an author who conveys as well as any I can think of just how much fun you can have with a short story.”
Read the full review
Empire of the Elite by Michael M Grynbaum
Review by Houman Barekat
Summed up in a sentence Inside the glittering, gossipy world of publisher Condé Nast.
What our reviewer said “Grynbaum quotes one journalist who believes she missed out on an editorship because, during the interview lunch, she gauchely ate asparagus with cutlery rather than by hand”
Read the full review
You may have missed …
How to Save the Amazon: A journalist’s deadly quest for answers by Dom Phillips
In bookshops now
Summed up in a sentence The murdered Guardian journalist’s final investigation, completed by his friends and supporters.
What our reviewer said “A book both brilliant and broken, one that is ultimately as inspiring and devastating as the Amazon itself” Charlie Gilmour
Read the full review
Further reading A deadly mission: how Dom Phillips and Bruno Pereira tried to warn the world about the Amazon’s destruction
Albums
If you only listen to one, make it …
Kesha: . (Period)
Out now
Kesha’s album .(Period). Photograph: AP
Summed up in a sentence After a long legal battle, the pop star’s sixth album harks back to her 2010s hot-mess era, with a buffet of pop styles and only rare hints of her highly publicised trauma.
What our reviewer said “The songs are all really strong, filled with smart little twists and drops, and funny, self-referential lines.” Alexis Petridis
Read the full review
Further reading ‘I would walk in and just cry for two hours’: Kesha on cats, court cases, and the dangers of ‘toxic positivity’
Pick of the rest
Daytimers: Alterations
Out now
Daytimers’ Alterations LP.
Summed up in a sentence The UK collective have been reimagining south Asian music since 2020, and their new compilation splices junglism and afro-house on to gems in Sony India’s catalogue.
What our reviewer said “Reframing this nostalgic cinema music for the modern dancefloor, Alterations proves there is still plenty of space for future generations of diaspora artists to celebrate and find inspiration in their heritage.” Ammar Kalia
Read the full review
Kae Tempest: Self Titled
Out now
Summed up in a sentence Despair runs through the Londoner’s fifth album but, in what is essentially a love letter to the trans community, his home town and partner, beauty breaks through.
What our reviewer said “Hope and hard-won happiness, against all odds, underpins this rich, compelling and timely record.” Rachel Aroesti
Read the full review
Further reading Kae Tempest: ‘I was living with this boiling hot secret in my heart’
Shostakovich: Preludes & Fugues Op 87
Out now
Summed up in a sentence Performed by Russian pianist Yulianna Avdeeva, these 24 works, modelled on Bach, date from 1950 and 1951 and were originally written for pianist Tatiana Nikolayeva.
What our reviewer said “Avdeeva takes a lighter approach, less forthright, and perhaps not digging as deeply into the barely disguised tragedy of the E minor Prelude as Nikolayeva does, but equally dazzling in the exuberant display of the A minor.” Andrew Clements
Read the full review
On tour this week
Slayer
Playing outdoor shows this week
Slayer perform at Cardiff Castle earlier this week. Photograph: Maxine Howells/Getty Images
Summed up in a sentence Playing outdoor shows including the big send-off for Black Sabbath on Saturday, the thrash legends have reformed and are playing their first UK gigs in six years.
What our reviewer said “Slayer are still a shocking proposition, their churning riffs punctuated by gross-out gore and grim images from endless war. Subtle? No. Effective? Absolutely.” Huw Baines
Ólafur Arnalds had a cold knot of dread in his stomach when he flew to Cork to say farewell to his friend and musical collaborator Eoin French – aka Talos – shortly before his death, last August.
“He was in his last few days – a week – and we knew it was nearing the end. I was so nervous. I was kind of crying the whole way on the plane. I was shaking, walking into the room to come talk to him,” Arnalds, the composer, producer and DJ, says from his studio in Reykjavík.
He was struck by French’s positivity at their final meeting at Marymount Hospice – how at peace he was with the world. “I walked out of that room laughing. That’s the kind of a guy he was. He was the one on death’s door. But he cared about making me feel good on our last meeting. He cared that I would walk out of there with a good memory of our relationship.
“He asked me, ‘How are you doing?’ I was, like, ‘F**k that. How are you doing? Are you okay, man?’ He took this with the grace of a god. Sorry to use such a big word, but that’s the kind of a person he was.”
With such a wide range of musical interests and inspirations, he found a kindred spirit in French, who, across his three albums as Talos, incorporated influences as far-flung as Sigur Rós (from Arnald’s native Iceland), Bon Iver, Frank Ocean and Cocteau Twins.
[ Talos: To listen to Eoin French’s music was to be transported to a hauntingly beautiful parallel dimensionOpens in new window ]
As French’s health declined, he and Arnalds met to finish a series of compositions they had worked on the across the previous several years. Those songs are being released this month under the title A Dawning. It is a beautiful tribute to French, a songwriter from just outside Cork city, whose hazy, dreamlike music was punctuated with bursts of wonder, like rainbows followed by a sudden downpour of emotion.
Powerful feelings likewise ripple through A Dawning, whether via the ambient throb of Signs, which features a tender vocal from French, or the haunting We Didn’t Know We Were Ready, a sobbing acoustic number in which the Irish singer looks forward to the “peace that breaks at dawn”.
As is inevitable given the circumstances in which it was made, the album arrives with an aura of sadness. Yet for Arnalds it is not a project about death so much as an outpouring of joy and an acknowledgment of the preciousness of life – a point the musician, with Nordic directness, is eager to get across.
“Enough for the death questions, because, actually, we made this record while he was very much alive,” Arnalds says. “You’re now looking at it with the perspective of [French’s death]. But, the record, it’s not about that: the record is a celebration of life. It’s a trap, a little bit, for us, you know – me and you talking in an interview, or for a listener, for fans, for journalists – to kind of put this record always within that box, to always frame it [with death].
“I’ll tell you, when we wrote those songs we were having the best time of our lives. We were having a beautiful time together. We were communicating as friends through some of the best music both of us felt like we had ever done – and that’s what this record celebrates.”
Arnalds and French were introduced by the festival programmer and artistic curator Mary Hickson, who brought them together for Sounds from a Safe Harbour, in Cork.
Arnalds has a lump in his throat as he remembers their first meeting against the unglamorous backdrop of a hotel conference room. Despite the inauspicious setting, they had a creative spark from the outset. The collaboration continued after French received a cancer diagnosis in November 2023. He died on August 11th, 2024, at the age of 36, survived by his wife and daughter.
“It was the hottest day of the year in Cork, and we were doing this kind of artistic residency connected to the Sounds from a Safe Harbour festival,” Arnalds says of their first get-together. “We wrote the first songs in a conference room on the second floor of the hotel. It was pretty bare bones, very institution-like. But with an upright piano. That was wonderful. We had our laptops and a couple of microphones. We would have to turn off the AC while recording anything. [It was] sticky and sweaty and [we were] drinking copious amounts of coffee.”
The death of a friend is never easy, but Arnalds was struck by Irish people’s openness about the subject.
“Iceland is Protestant – in its modern roots, anyway.” Ireland and Iceland “both had the same kind of old pagan traditions. Today we’re Protestant, and death is not something you face. You don’t look at that in the eyes. And it was eye-opening for me to be in Ireland for a wake. There’s just dancing and singing. I was absolutely fascinated by it, and very impressed.
“And I wish we had even half of that here. I feel like here, someone dies … they get kind of removed very quickly. We wait maybe two weeks or so, until a convenient day for the funeral. We might have a little open casket for the closest people the night before. Then the funeral will happen in the daytime, and afterwards people will eat some cake and go home.”
Much of the album was put together at French’s house near Clonakilty, in west Cork. The landscape reminded Arnalds of home, Ireland and Iceland being, he says, two hunks of rock plonked into the North Atlantic. He also felt parallels between the Irish language and Icelandic, both under threat in a globalised world – albeit for different reasons.
“It’s no wonder that we connect quickly to Irish people. We didn’t have our language taken away from us in the same way Ireland did. But we are currently fighting not to lose it in a different way – through globalisation and social media and just technology that always is in English. Kids are starting to speak English instead of Icelandic sometimes now. So we are also fighting a fight for our language.
“It was fun to discuss that with Eoin and talk about those things. And I’ve been very impressed meeting so many Irish people in the last couple of years and seeing the revival of the Irish language. I find it absolutely beautiful. Look at Kneecap,” he says, referring to the Belfast-Derry group who rap largely in Irish.
Arnalds is polite and thoughtful but not a chatterbox. French operated on a similar wavelength. Both were comfortable in silence, which perhaps explains why they worked so well together.
“It is something we felt like the music is partly about. How much can be said in the silence. How brotherhood goes deeper than [chatter]. We would talk all the time, of course. But it never felt like we had to. And there would be whole evenings, whole days sometimes, where we would say, like, four words. We would just focus on the music we were making, or, on some occasions, just the books we were reading separately.
“There’s some kind of a magic that often happens with music – when you are doing music together, you are speaking to each other, you are communicating to each other. It just doesn’t have to be big discussions.”
Since French’s death Arnalds has been tweaking the album. He is glad it is coming out into the world and is looking forward to returning to Sounds from a Safe Harbour, where he will participate in a tribute to French at Cork Opera House on September 11th – having already delivered a musical elegy to the Corkman on The Tommy Tiernan Show last January, when he performed We Didn’t Know We Were Ready, alongside its co-composers Niamh Reagan and Ye Vagabonds. They were joined by other acquaintances of French, including the Watford sisters The Staves, Kate Ellis of Crash Ensemble, the Cork singer Laoise Leahy and the superstar Dermot Kennedy.
Honouring his friend’s memory has been immensely emotional. That said, Arnalds has understandably had some anxiety in the run-up to the release. Finishing the LP in his studio, he would sense French at his side.
“I would miss him a lot. I would feel nervous. Am I doing the right thing? I can’t ask him does he like this. I would feel self-conscious around our friends or family, me being given the role of representing him in this way.
“On the other hand, there is no better place to channel your grief. I feel extremely fortunate to have this. I’m very glad I have this as a way to channel my emotions. A lot of the time I could feel him next to me working on this. We were still having a good time together, in some way.”
Olafúr Arnalds & Talos: A Dawning is released by Deutsche Grammophon on Friday, July 11th. Remembering Talos is at Cork Opera House on September 11th, as part of Sounds from a Safe Harbour
Riccardo Scamarcio pops up on my Zoom screen at a roadside cafe with a curtain of blue behind him. Darkly handsome in a crisp white shirt, he puffs on a cigarette – very old school – while answering in the most cleanly perfect English. He is crossing the mountains to Tuscany. The spirit of classic Italian cinema could hardly be better honoured if he were rendered in black and white.
I mention this as his appearance reminds me of how Johnny Depp came to cast him as Amedeo Modigliani in the American actor’s second feature as director. Modì: Three Days on the Wing of Madness follows the painter and sculptor as he cavorts through an earthily rendered version of early 20th-century Paris. There is a great deal of arguing in bars and necking in graveyards.
Depp had arranged to talk to Scamarcio early in the evening, but he was forced to knock the meeting back by three hours. At that point the Italian was driving with his daughter and the nanny. He called into a petrol station. Happily, the staff recognised the star and allowed him to use a side building for the Zoom.
Riccardo Scamarcio in a heavily romanticised Paris of 1916 in the film
“We were talking, and after a while Johnny says, ‘Hey, man. Can I say something? Where are you?’ There was stuff around for cars, oil, strange tools around me. I said, ‘I’m sorry, Johnny, but I’m in the gas station. I was driving, and this is the only place I could stage the Zoom call.’ He says, ‘In a gas station!’ I didn’t know this at the time, but the producer was there off-screen. And Johnny said, ‘He is in a gas station. This is my man!’”
This is how the business now works. You do press interviews in hillside cafes and take auditions in petrol stations.
“Yeah, it was rock’n’roll,” he says. “Johnny is a very special person. He is very sweet and very gentle and very kind to every single one. He is a person who likes paradox.”
Scamarcio, now in his mid-40s, has been exhaustingly busy in Italian cinema and TV for more than 20 years. Back in 2005 he was rough-hewn in the epic gangster flick Romanzo Criminale. He has worked with Abel Ferrara and Costa-Gavras. You can see him in Paolo Sorrentino’s Loro, about Silvio Berlusconi, and Nanni Moretti’s Three Floors. He doesn’t need to stretch into English-language productions, but he, nonetheless, has been happy to show off his polyglottal talents in films such as John Wick: Chapter 2 and Kenneth Branagh’s A Haunting in Venice.
“It’s very important to work in other countries,” Scamarcio says. “In English you have more opportunities. The market is bigger. I speak very fluent French too. So I’ve been shooting films in France. I’m very known in my country. When you work outside your country it’s fantastic, because people don’t know you, so nobody cares. They have no expectation from you, right? There is another level, which is the language. Acting in another language is like having a mask.”
The long faces of Modigliani
How familiar was Scamarcio with Modigliani before coming to the film? The elongated faces and mournful eyes that characterise his work are – though, as the film explains, underappreciated in his life – now an immovable part of the culture. That must be even more so in the artist’s native Italy.
“Yes, of course. My mother is a painter,” Scamarcio says. “I was obsessed with this big book that had pictures of his paintings and sculptures. My mother was always saying, ‘Why is this boy so obsessed with this book?’ Maybe it was a sign. I knew, of course, he had a very, very tough life.”
It hardly needs to be said that Depp is currently a controversial character. The Kentucky actor – somehow now 62 – has been a ubiquitous presence since the late 1980s. He was Jack Sparrow. He was Sweeney Todd. He was in a rock “supergroup” called Hollywood Vampires. (Three Days on the Wing of Madness is dedicated to late guitarist Jeff Beck.)
Over the past decade, however, he has drawn more attention for an acrimonious split with Amber Heard that led, in 2022, to Depp suing his then former wife, who had accused him of physical abuse, in the United States, for defamation. Heard was found liable. Two years earlier he had lost in the British courts after suing News Group over allegations of abuse against Heard published in the Sun newspaper. The dispute has, to say the least, caused some division on social media.
[ Who Trolled Amber? review: Relentless dig beneath Johnny Depp vs Amber Heard libel case makes a staggering revelationOpens in new window ]
When the mess went away (for then, anyway) Depp returned to a project he had first discussed with Al Pacino decades earlier: a study of Modigliani adapted from a play by Dennis McIntyre. Indeed, Pacino, who has an amusing role in Three Days on the Wing of Madness as a flamboyant art dealer, had been toying with the idea way back in the 1970s. Martin Scorsese, Bernardo Bertolucci and Francis Ford Coppola were all involved in conversations about it.
“Pacino was supposed to direct this project, and then he didn’t,” Scamarcio says. “It was his passion project since when he was young. Then he met Johnny in Donnie Brasco and they become friends. Pacino says, ‘I have this project. Maybe you could be perfect to play Modigliani.’ So Pacino was supposed to direct the film and Johnny to play Modigliani. It didn’t happen.”
Scamarcio is politely euphemistic about his director’s recent complications.
‘I felt that my director, Johnny Depp, trusted me very much’: Johnny Depp and Riccardo Scamarcio. Photograph: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images for The Red Sea International Film Festival
“Johnny had his problems that we all know,” he says. “When he won the case and he was back, Al says, ‘I think the moment is now correct for you to direct the film. I’m too old. I don’t want to do it. You should do it.’ And, as Johnny says all the time, if Pacino comes to you and says do something it’s better you do it.”
The resulting film is an amusing, anarchic romp through a highly romanticised version of Paris in 1916. As you might expect from Depp, there are a few rock’n’roll touches. At one stage The Black Angel’s Death Song, by The Velvet Underground, and Tom Waits’s Tom Traubert’s Blues vie for our attention. None of this gets in the way of a hugely charismatic turn from Scamarcio. He does good work as a misunderstood master who can barely scrabble together a few sous for artworks that would later sell for millions.
It is more than 28 years since The Brave, Depp’s indifferently received directorial debut. Did Scamarcio feel he had what it takes behind the camera?
“Basically it is about trust,” he says. “I felt that my director, Johnny Depp, trusted me very much. That is what it is all about. This is what an actor needs from his director. He needs to be loved and trusted. We did this journey together – experimenting things, changing, just trying to get some special life there.
“He was talking about Marlon Brando, when they were friends. We were talking about all the processes of being a cinema actor. For me, it confirmed all the things I believed when I think about my job. My job is to create an atmosphere.”
For all the flash and bang of Three Days on the Wing of Madness, it is at its best in the conversational duel between Pacino and Scamarcio. The older actor is a marvel. After a few decades of chewing the scenery, he seems to have recovered an inner calm.
“He’s still there, fighting as an actor and an artist,” Scamarcio says. “But with the simplicity and the fairness and the honesty of a 20-year-old actor.”
I wonder if Scamarcio could sense Pacino’s Italian roots. The American is, after all, only one generation distant from Sicilian origins.
“Oh, yeah. Because, well, you can take away an Italian man from Italy, but you can never take Italy away from an Italian. You know what I’m saying?”
Scamarcio does not seem to sleep. Early previews of the current film will feature a conversation, filmed at Tate Modern in London, between Scamarcio, Depp, the art critic Waldemar Januszczak and British artist Polly Morgan. He has another three Italian productions on the go. Will we hear him in English again soon?
“There is the international language – which is acting,” he says with a charming smile. “Being alive on scene – and being obscene. Being obscene, which means ‘out of scene’. It comes from the Greek.”
I’ll take his word for it. Educated man.
Modì: Three Days on the Wing of Madness is in cinemas from Friday, July 11th, with previews on Thursday, July 10th
Patrick Wolf in East Kent, a rural area where he has been living for years. Daniel Riera
This morning, before his interview, Patrick Wolf, 41, went swimming in the North Sea. It’s what he does every day, from the beginning of spring until fall. Afterwards, he returned to his home in East Kent, a place where he arrived by pure chance a few years ago at, he says, “my lowest point of obscurity.” Up until that point, the London native had always been a city boy. “I used to live in a house [in London] by Waterloo station. But in the pandemic, I was forced out to the suburbs. For so much of my life, I’ve been really drawn to the places where my brain starts to rot, in the liminal spaces and suburbia, the places which aren’t one thing or the other. The black mold of my soul just crept in. I knew I couldn’t afford to go back to London, like many people can’t. I thought — and this was combined with sobriety as well — I’ve got to go somewhere where I can wake up in the morning with a sense of wonder and the thrill of looking around my environment. So, I went as far east of England that you could and found a little house here. I found an abandoned concrete hover port with all this nature. I just felt immediately, this is where I live now.”
What might seem like yet another story of moving during the era of Brexit and gentrification is in reality, a tale of survival against the odds. Between 2002 and 2012, Wolf had a brilliant and atypical career in British pop. At 18 years old, he released Lycanthropy, a shining introduction to a singer-songwriter who played all the instruments on his albums, an artist who had his roots in English folks and counterculture, a kind of feral child raised among ukeleles, synthesizers, electric guitars, harps and clavichords, whose deep voice sang gothic and sophisticated lyrics that seemed straight out of an Angela Carter or Virginia Woolf story.
That album was followed by four more, two of them on major labels. Wolf found success, played nonstop concerts, earned money. In 2012, after putting out an unconventional acoustic compilation, he fell silent. Later, the public would learn that he’d been overtaken by creative, personal and family crises. Addictions, losses, bankruptcy, grief. That cycle is finally coming to an end.
Patrick Wolf, portrayed à la Peter Berlin in East Kent, where he has been living for years.Daniel Riera
Last month,Wolf released Crying the Neck, his first album of completely new material in 13 years. Since May, he’s been touring its music and reuniting with his fan base. “ When it had been a decade since my last album, I put out a little EP [The Night Safari, 2023]. It was getting a bit too self-indulgent, the time away. I thought, ‘It’s now time.’ I had survived on royalties and bankruptcies, saying I had no debts for a while. I had been digging long enough under the earth, I’d found enough treasure that I thought it was time to bring it back and start sharing with the world.” One need only listen to the first piano chords of Reculver, the song that opens the album, to agree that Wolf is back. And in top form, with prodigious melodies and that deep and unmistakable sound, austere yet refined, of his early recordings.
“Luckily when in bankruptcy, they can’t legally take the tools of your trade,” he explains when asked about having regained his sound. “If you’re a musician, they can’t take your instruments.” During the first years of his career, Wolf collected all kinds of instruments. “The way those records were sounding was because those were the instruments around me, that I could see in my bedroom. And then when I became a pop star,” he smiles, “I had so much, being in the public eye, I kind of forgot that all those instruments were in storage.”
When he re-emerged from the shadows, he discovered they were still there, and picked them up again. Now, a shed in his garden houses a small recording studio where most of his new album came to life. “It was my dream as a teenager, and all the way up to my thirties, when I stopped having dreams about where I want my life to be and my work to be. A lot is to do with having a room of your own, really, to think. Like, the major label albums, I would always be on the contract with the creative control. But when somebody is throwing half a million pounds around, creative control also means a lot of boardroom meetings,” he says.
His relationship with the recording industry was somewhat convulsive. The Magic Position (2007), his biggest commercial hit, led to him being labeled as an extravagant, Baroque artist, a kind of colorful response to the folk renaissance. Wolf made perfect songs, wore his hair dyed red and even starred in a Burberry campaign alongside model Agyness Deyn. In 2011, with the release of Lupercalia, he said he’d spent a fortune renting a glassed-in penthouse on the banks of the Thames, just to see what it felt like to live there. But it was all a mirage. In 2015, his mother was diagnosed with cancer and Wolf nearly died in a hit-and-run in Italy. He rose from the crash covered in blood and, completely distraught, shouted, “Let’s go to the beach!”
“It was the universe saying, ‘Slow down,” he confessed to The Guardian. In 2017, he was declared in bankruptcy and in 2018, after the death of his mother, he started drinking again. But he prefers not to wallow in those years. “I put the work in to be free from that period of time,” he says. “I used to think that the power of writing would be enough to divorce you from the recent trauma of life. I realized by the end of my twenties that hadn’t worked for me. I had written, I’d made art I was very proud of, but in terms of doing the emotional deconstruction, none of that work had been done. I was still basically an 18-year-old, you know, but 32, and I hadn’t done any work. I’d just been out there looking glamorous and singing to big audiences and sharing my stories with people and being useful to other people. I do think other people’s music can help you through problems, but writing your way out of this situation — it sounds like this romantic emancipation, like a spiritual quest, but really, there’s a reason why psychotherapy exists.”
The key, he says, is not to sublimate suffering through art, nor to drop one’s guard. “I’m still in recovery for the rest of my life as an addict. I have to do daily work, that’s a way of keeping on being the dominatrix over the slave, making sure that misery is on the chain and you’re in charge of it. I’ve grown with responsibility in order to stay functional, but that involves not staring at the past at all. If you look that way too long, there’s a danger of it.”
His new album is the first of a series of four which, during the next 10 years, Wolf plans to release following an almost conceptual plan. Each corresponds to a season of the year, and speaks of traditions, legends, rites and folklore. Crying the Neck, at first glance, is luminous — it’s the summer album. “This grief naturally feels like gothic subject matter. I’m not going to set that in Halloween,” he jokes. But nor is he hiding from the trauma. The press statement for the LP talks about mourning, addictions, loss and illness. “I’m like, this is for a party!” he jokes. Lead single Dies Irae is an impossible conversation set between the artist and his dead mother.
“They are all quite intimidating subjects. I’m like, why isn’t it on the radio? I’m delivering quite a lot of overwhelming subjects. If I was in the literature world, then it would be intimidating work, but within this context of pop music, I understand if this might be a hard record for people,” he reflects. “For me, survival is like — death becomes an affirmation of life.” Has he learned something from the suffering? “Well, I think some people don’t learn and they sink with the ship. There seems to be a disease in culture, I feel, at the endings and positivity. What the album tries to address is that actually, it’s very important to live with your sorrow, it kind of creates a shadow for your job, a contrast to your optimism. The album doesn’t have this happy ending and then you turn into a butterfly and fly away and it’s a sunny day. It finishes by saying, I am feeling incredibly heavy and I think I will carry this with me for the rest of my life. It’s important to live with these things and to find a space for your sorrow.”
In his case, that learning has led him to limit his public presence. “I wasn’t that famous. But I was ashamed, and that was inherited from the way the media perceived me.” He says he regrets having allowed them to paint him as “this kind of monstrous clown”. “I did want to be famous, you know, because it seemed so much fun. Little did I know that the pursuit of it would drive you insane, and that it’s the complete opposite of doing good work. You know, unless you’re very clever and your art form is celebrity, like Charli XCX. But my work, if I look back on it, is incredibly introverted.”
Part of that overexposure had to do with his sexuality. “It was like, you’re the only gay person and you work at McDonald’s, or you’re the only lesbian in the office. Out of survival, you become more funny, or you become something that you’re not in order to develop a sense of belonging. But you’re actually not sharing your vulnerable side at all. Talking about indie music, I was the only out gay boy in this country, you know. I had unresolved trauma from being that at school, and the violence that surrounded that. Then you’re thrust into a professional context, and you feel like it’s the only way people can accept you. I had to deconstruct that over the years, and I can’t do that anymore. What I realized when I got clean and sober was that I’m actually an incredibly quiet person and really unsure of myself, and that’s not conducive to being a successful public figure. I’m out here now as an advocate for my work. It’s such a strange mental labyrinth to go into, that I’ve escaped now. I understand that it’s not about being Patrick Wolf, it’s something that I think comes down to a minority experience within the workplace.”
I’m still in recovery for the rest of my life as an addict. I have to do daily work, that’s a way of keeping on being the dominatrix over the slave
What does he think, then, of the new generation of artists who celebrate such labels? “I don’t think that my experience at 41 is gonna help somebody at 21. They’re going through a whole different set of social circumstances,” he reflects. “But for a long time, we were all trying so hard for there to be no suffix. There were certain interviews that were like, ‘sing a song right now’ and it had to be flamboyant. It was like seeing Laura Marling release an album as ‘a female songwriter’. And now the new generations are coming in like ‘queer artists, Black artists.’ I’m like, guys, don’t undo the freedom of having your work speak for itself. It’s really very liberating. But I think in a way, it shows that something that we were really trying to push away is seen as something to celebrate. I think over the next 10 years, my comments on sexuality and society are going to be quite sparse. It’s a rapidly changing country in which our identity is either being weaponized or commercially exploited. I think it’s better to be observant and see where you can help on a day-to-day level.”
But for now, the priority is his new songs, his tour, and his plans for the coming years. He’s now better prepared for success, if it comes, and has learned to enjoy living in a place where no one has ever heard of Patrick Wolf. “I landed here at my lowest point of obscurity. My driving instructor said, ‘What do you do?’ He got really obsessed with Googling me and people are finding out very slowly. Generally, they don’t care about that kind of thing at all down here. But I can’t keep that secret any longer. It’s like a nudist beach: at the end of this, I hope I can still be naked and no one’s going to get their phone out and stuff like that. I’m not insane enough to want to pursue that level of celebrity. I kind of would love pure anonymity for the next 10 years, but it won’t happen, you know.”
Sign up for our weekly newsletter to get more English-language news coverage from EL PAÍS USA Edition
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
The subtle musical collages and slowly unfolding soundscapes that mark Openness Trio, the debut release from a collective comprised of Nate Mercereau, Josh Johnson and Carlos Niño, are a far cry from the urban stamp that marks Blue Note’s classic recordings. The five tracks were recorded in various locations dotted around Los Angeles, and the trio’s rhythmic palette has more in common with the minimalism of Steve Reich than the polyrhythmic bounce of modern jazz. Add in layers of electronica that bring to mind the soundscapes of noughties Nordic jazz, and this release represents something of a Blue Note outlier.
Although the trio’s musicians project a strong common bond with shared influences ranging from Robert Fripp to spiritual jazz, their musical careers have taken different paths. The underground reputation of percussionist/producer Niño rests on his long-running ambient jazz project Carlos Niño & Friends. Guitarist Mercereau, a new underground face, is currently grabbing attention for his control of advanced guitar synthesiser techniques to forge improvised sound.
In contrast, seasoned session saxophonist/producer Johnson has performed on recordings for Miley Cyrus and Harry Styles, and spent five years as soul singer Leon Bridges’ musical director. The canny arranger’s touch remains intact, but now his crisp phrasing is overshadowed by resonant ripples, seductive doodles and swaths of mournful sustains.
The set opens with the oscillating electronic pulse of “Hawk Dreams”, which was recorded outdoors in the hills of Ojai. As the piece develops, stirring melodies from doctored sax and guitar synthesiser assemble, merge and float away over a bed of textured sound. “ . . . Anything is Possible” comes next, with acoustic sax ruminating over rhythmically fractured support, and then the churchlike moods of “Openness”, which was recorded in an oak tree cathedral growing in a hillside orchard.
The final two constructions continue to immerse the listener in ambient rhythms, kaleidoscopic textures and flutters of tenor sax. The gentle warmth of “Chimes in the Garden” is contemplative, but the sway of “Elsewhere”, recorded under a pepper tree in Topanga Canyon, pushes dynamics to the extreme.
Anna Weyant shares her home with a ghost. Not the metaphorical kind; not the ghost of painters before her, nor the ghost of her early, soaring success. Just the standard issue, after-life sort of ghost.
“When I first moved in, I just felt this presence of a spirit and started researching the building — more and more things were happening and I thought: somebody’s here. There were certain areas that I didn’t want to go into. I ended up finding out that somebody had passed away in my bedroom. And so I actually found out where his widow lived,” she tells me as we enter the studio space of her apartment.
To be in touch with her, I ask?
“No, I read him the address one night to see if he might want to go there, because it’s just down the street.”
Weyant, aged just 30, is one of the most successful and spoken about young painters in the world. She lives with her elderly King Charles spaniel, Sprout, in a sedate, beautiful space uptown, which strikes me as I enter it as notably old New York, dark wood and low lighting, not fussy or self-consciously sophisticated, but definitively adult. Everything uptown feels a little more permanent, the residents older, more fixed, less subject to the temporal shifts of the city, and it makes sense to me as we speak that she has chosen to exist here rather than in a trendier neighbourhood or apartment. Despite some caustic dismissals about the nature of her career, Weyant is in it for the long haul.
We are meeting in advance of her first major museum show, which opens at the Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum in Madrid this month. This will be the first exhibition to draw from her entire output, through 26 paintings, predating her first New York solo show in 2019, Welcome to the Dollhouse, and past her most recent in London, Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolves? in 2024. Particularly appealing about the exhibition, according to Weyant, was the opportunity to select works from the Thyssen’s collection to be presented alongside her own, including a Magritte, a Balthus and a beguiling portrait by the German painter Christian Schad. One senses that the opportunity not only to show the growth of her own work, but also to declare some influences not typically ascribed to Weyant, is important to her.
“There’s only one work that I really was insistent on having, this big painting called ‘Feted’ [2020] that I’ve never shown before which was in a private collection in New York, and we had to talk somewhere into loaning it, and they did,” she says. “And then my most recent painting. Actually, no — it doesn’t have my most recent painting. It was going to have my most recent painting, but last night I killed it.”
Killed it for this show, I ask, or will you never return to it?
“I’ll cut it up,” she says easily. “I’ve killed the last three.”
Weyant is aware that she could easily sell this and more or less anything else she might choose — “I’m sure I could just send it out and it would be fine, but at this point, if it’s not exciting, it’s not worth it for me to let it out into the world” — but her market value has become something of an albatross around the neck of her career, as has much of the lore surrounding her beginnings.
Weyant’s origins are so well established that her publicist is able to succinctly list them in one brief parenthesis as items to avoid focusing on: high auction prices, Instagram, comparisons to Botticelli, selling paintings on beach towels in the Hamptons. It’s unusual for an artist to have such widely known bullet points, the kind your average person would ordinarily be able to cite about a Real Housewife or pop star, but Weyant has the unusual confluence of undeniable generational gifts as a painter and the sort of personal star power and beauty that is bait to tabloids (the Daily Mail comes in for particular outrage when we discuss her relationship to her media coverage — they published photographs of the interior of her old apartment).
Weyant and her King Charles spaniel Sprout photographed at home for the FT by Kana Motojima
Although the attention was partly to do with the spurious claim that her meteoric success began with “being discovered on Instagram”, it rocketed after Weyant began dating Larry Gagosian, the immensely successful gallerist who now represents her. The relationship has since ended, and Weyant is now with the musician Jason Isbell; she and I debrief for a bit about dating men who have children.
Before meeting Weyant I had worried that I did not have the sufficient ruthlessness to bring up the relationship with Gagosian, what I assumed would be a source of tiresome displeasure for her. Luckily she does it for me, with the same gentle openness she communicates with all afternoon. I asked about how her work has formally developed in recent years.
“In the past few years, as I started to have more market attention and wider attention, that’s when I decided I needed to step it up again. I also had entered into a relationship with my art dealer at the time. There was a lot of talk that maybe the success had come from that, and I’m not denying that at all, but I felt like if that was going to be the narrative, then I was just gonna have to go full speed ahead and make the best fucking work I could.”
It’s easy to see why the shorthand (if somewhat lazy) narrative of Weyant as a “millennial Botticelli” worked. Her early paintings do often have a jarring wit and juxtaposition that could be read as frivolous — she paints many pretty women, many of them her friends and muses, in a style often likened to the Dutch or Renaissance masters, but with knowing contemporary details (I love 2018’s “Sip n’ Paint”, a woman painting a gaudy Paris skyline with a glass of wine). But her work has always been more destabilising and surreal than caricature, her pony-ponytail meeting in 2019’s “My Pony” bringing inexorably to mind the sumptuous mercurial womanhood of Twin Peaks.
When I ask about the initial development of what would become her style, Weyant refers to a year she spent studying in China after graduating from the Rhode Island School of Design. “I had nothing to lose and kind of nothing to gain. It was a really weird, dark, lonely time, but also so beautiful and poetic. I was alone a lot, I didn’t speak the language. I didn’t know how to get around. I was just sort of jogging and painting, and so lonely and so homesick. Which was so good for me, and shaped my practice.”
Her more recent work has, as often as the gorgeous soft wide-faced women, the kind of euphoric unsettling discord that makes the Magritte selection in her Thyssen show so relevant. And further, as I spent time with her monograph, I found that who I was thinking of most often was not any Dutch master but Philip Guston. The work of hers I love the most (and what I would be acquiring if I found myself with a few million to spare) is the disturbing cartoon mask-like figure of “A Disaster, Such A Catastrophe” (2022).
The novelist Emma Cline, a friend and subject of Weyant’s, told me: “She’s a true artist — her involvement with her work is total. It’s like life comes second to her art practice. She’d rather be painting than doing anything else.”
As we conclude, Weyant is eager to show me the painting she will soon destroy, in that studio space that looks more like the room for a character in Succession to swill brown liquor and brood. She unveils it, a portrait of her friend Ariana, a painter in LA, obscured by a window frame.
“I just wasn’t vibing with it, I wasn’t getting the face, so I thought, I’m going to cover it up with the window and then it looked shittier and so I’m throwing [in] the towel.”
How does that feel? She shrugs.
“Today I’ll move on.”
July 15-October 12, museothyssen.org
Find out about our latest stories first —follow FT Weekend on Instagram, Bluesky and X, and sign up to receive the FT Weekend newsletter every Saturday morning
In the age of self-help, self-improvement and self-obsession, there have never been more places to look to for guidance. Where the anxious and the uncertain might have once consulted a search engine for answers, now we can engage in a seemingly meaningful discussion about our problems with ChatGPT. Or, if you’re in China, DeepSeek.
To some, though, it feels as if our ancestors knew more about life than we do. Or at least, they knew how to look for them. And so it is that scores of young Chinese are turning to ancient forms of divination to find out what the future holds. In the past couple of years, fortune-telling bars have been popping up in China’s cities, offering drinks and snacks alongside xuanxue, or spiritualism. The trend makes sense: China’s economy is struggling, and although consumers are saving their pennies, going out for a drink is cheaper than other forms of retail therapy or an actual therapist. With a deep-rooted culture of mysticism that blends Daoist, Buddhist and folk practices, which have defied decades of the government trying to stamp out superstitious beliefs, for many Chinese people, turning to the unseen makes perfect sense.
Fortune telling sticks, or qiuqian, in a Beijing bar. Photograph: Amy Hawkins/The Guardian
This week, I decided to join them.
My xuanxue haunt of choice is Qie Le, a newly opened bar in Beijing’s wealthy Chaoyang district. On a Thursday evening, the bar, adorned with yellow Taoist talismans and draped translucent curtains, is quiet. All the better for hogging the fortune-teller’s attention with questions from my deep wells of narcissism. But Wan Mo, either because of her spiritual intuition or because I am not the first self-involved millennial to seek her services, sees me coming a mile off. It’s strictly one question per drink bought.
Wan Mo, a stylish 36-year-old dressed in a loose white Tang-style jacket fastened with traditional Chinese knots, specialises in qiuqian, or Chinese lottery sticks. The practice involves shaking a cylindrical wooden container full of wooden sticks, while focusing on a question in your mind. Eventually, one of the sticks, engraved with text and numerals, falls out, and a fortune-teller can interpret the answer. Qiuqian dates back to the Jin dynasty (AD266 to AD420) and has survived centuries of war, upheaval, a Cultural Revolution and the rise of artificial intelligence to remain a stalwart of Taoist temples, and now, Beijing cocktail bars.
So I’m hoping that qiuqian will be well placed to answer my first question: Will AI take my job?
“Use both hands,” Wan Mo says firmly. She is a no-nonsense savant. “Focus on your question.” She tells me that as a foreigner, my connection with the sticks might not be as profound as a Chinese person’s. So I need to “think carefully”.
After a few seconds of focused yet vigorous shaking, not one but two sticks drop on to the table between us.
Wan Mo studies the first one. “This stick means that later on, AI will have an impact on your job … even though you’re very talented, you can’t compete with its scale. For example, if you write one article, it can write 10. It will definitely affect you.”
Qie Le, a newly opened bar in Beijing’s wealthy Chaoyang district. Photograph: Amy Hawkins/The Guardian
This is not the spiritual salve I was hoping for. Wan Mo tells me that the second stick even provides a timeline for my professional redundancy. “It says that within one to three years, there won’t be a major impact. But after three years, AI will become a major force.”
Wan Mo’s predictions don’t leave me full of hope for my next question. But in the spirit of xuanxue, I decide to try my luck again, and order another round. We take a brief break for Wan Mo to have a cigarette break and catch up with a friend who has wandered into the bar. His chipper demeanour makes me think that he is yet to discover that AI will take his job – or he’s just made his peace with it.
Eventually I muster up enough liquid courage to ask my second question. Wan Mo’s stern demeanour sends a slight chill through my hands as I grasp the qiuqian box for the second time. Shake, shake, shake. Think, think, think. A single wooden stick falls out of the container.
“Will I get a pay rise?” I ask, tentatively. The answer comes unnervingly quickly.
“There’s not much possibility at the moment. Although [the stick] is about transition … it shows there is no major change … There is some hope, but it’s not immediate. You need to make some personal adjustments.”
I ask what kind of personal adjustments I could make, hoping that she won’t make me order another drink to find out.
The fortune table at Qie Le in Beijing. Photograph: Amy Hawkins/The Guardian
“If you want a pay rise, xuanxue can only offer support,” she demurs. “For example, the bracelet I’m wearing is for attracting wealth. It’s made from natural materials … we’d recommend wearing something like this. It can help bring in some financial luck and may have a positive effect. But the most important thing is still communicating with the superiors.”
I am not sure if she means my spiritual or editorial superiors. But with that my time is up. Wan Mo’s friend says that everyone comes to Qie Le with the same kinds of questions: how to get rich, stay healthy, find love. I feel as if all I’ve discovered is how dim my chances are on the first question, and it’s getting too late to ask the second and third. I slink off home to get some sleep before my early start the next day. I bet AI doesn’t have to worry about feeling tired.